As the title says, I am planning to completely rebuild the Brake Servo and the Master Cylinder on my '98 Rover. I believe that if I buy the parts below, I will have everything I need to get the job done in a weekend. If anyone has hints, tips, or knows I am missing parts please let me know!

Servo Repair Kit - GSM120
Master Cylinder Repair Kit - GRK1039
Master Cylinder Gasket - 31G840
Non-Return Valve - 17H2646


*I can't seem to find availability of the 90-degree union that attaches between the hose and Part 21 in this diagram. Any suggestions??

Thanks guys!

(I am rebuilding the system because of low idle and a leaky M-Cyl reservoir. My symptoms are exactly identical to this guys. Have a read. )

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1998 Rover Mk VII
2001 Honda CBR 929RR (street)
2014 BMW S1000RR (track)

I've just very recently completed the rebuild of my brake servo and MC from a 99 model car - here's some stuff you'll want to know:

1. Forget the gasket it's not needed - a large O-ring seals between body and MC.
2. Dismantle your MC first and inspect the bore for wear - mine was worn out, and the cost of resleeving the MC and buying a seal kit is more than a complete new MC assembly. Note - the new assemblies don't come with the reservoir though so don't break it when getting it off the old unit. I bought mine from Karcraft - it was in stock and cheaper than from anywhere else.
3. Buy some plastic bushes for the pedal pushrods with the other stuff, and maybe a new lid for the reservoir too.
4. Rebuilding the servo itself is easy, it's just a little bit more of a pain if it has any rust on it. I bead blasted mine and painted the internals before assembly, before then painting the closed barrel again.

I had my MC re-sleeved locally. The advantage is that it was done with metal that is nowhere near as corrosive as the original casting. Can't remember if it was s/s.

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'98 Mpi Sportspack + 7 port alloy head

Hey Bob - do you recall how much the resleeve was?

Well, after the comments, I think I'm going to simply buy a new MC and rebuild the servo.

I still have one problem though - that 90 degree union on the hose seems to be my single point of failure. Where / how do I get a spare in case it is broken (or I break it?!?)

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1998 Rover Mk VII
2001 Honda CBR 929RR (street)
2014 BMW S1000RR (track)

I'll dig out the receipt mate and let you know.
It was done by Clutch & Brake Lt Ryrie St Geelong 5229 5077

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'98 Mpi Sportspack + 7 port alloy head

Harley i had my brake M/Cyl S/S sleeved a few years ago , from memory i think it was about $240 .

So, I'm digging into the rebuild of the servo this weekend (and replacement of the M/C).

I've come across this post, that makes it sound like putting the servo back together again is going to be a nightmare. Anyone have tips, tricks or tools on how to re-unite the two halves of the servo?

What was your experience Harley?

http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/to ... try3078328

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1998 Rover Mk VII
2001 Honda CBR 929RR (street)
2014 BMW S1000RR (track)

This post was for a remote booster. Disregard

Well, this piece broke.

It's hard to tell if this will cause me any real problems. It seems to me all the vacuum seal happens at the outer edge of the big rubber diaphragm.

I finished the job and put it all back together anyway. Totally impossible to get the two halves of the servo to rotate all the way around. I've left it about halfway. With the damage I did (and un-did) to the M/C studs, there is no way that bad boy is going to come apart on it's own.

So, should I be concerned about this bit of broken plastic where the center of the diaphragm attaches?

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1998 Rover Mk VII
2001 Honda CBR 929RR (street)
2014 BMW S1000RR (track)

So, for those of you who were wondering how it all turned out...

I finished the install, bled the brakes, and everything seems to be working a treat. The left side of my engine bay is cleaner than it has looked in years, and the brakes feel exactly as they did before I began the project. The only bug-bear is that as the servo wouldn't twist all the way back together (and I have severely weakened the M/C mounting studs), so the M/C and reservoir is ever so slightly tilted to the left. I'll continue driving it, and towing with it, and let everyone know if I encounter any further problems.

(Also FYI, the Minispares.com M/C does include a shiny new reservoir and cap.)

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1998 Rover Mk VII
2001 Honda CBR 929RR (street)
2014 BMW S1000RR (track)