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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 11:41 am 
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Location: East Melbourne, Australia
Hi there everyone, hope all is good!

Looking for some advise on replacing original rear shock absorbers on the above mentioned car. I tell you what, since moving to Hawthorn Vic, every damn road in my area has tram tracks and sooo many pot holes and bumps in the roads, that its killing my car!! The mechanic said one of the rear shocks have just started to 'bleed' recently so I would like to put some new ones in. Can anyone advice on which to put in and from where I could get some (I'm a student at the mo, so can't splash out on fancy one's though I would love to). I understand I will need to remove the fuel tank also to get at the left side, other than that are we looking at a relatively simple job? And is there anything else I should replace while I'm there? I would prefer to stay Koni, as I believe that's the original part, unless anyone can convince me to change to something else.

Thanks for all your advise in advance.
Nick


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 11:49 am 
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Working on a budget, I'd simply replace the shocks with new ones of the same.
No real need to upgrade unless the car is lowered or driven quite hard.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 11:56 am 
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If you are staying with Konis I'd fit the yellow (Koni Sport) ones. I found their std orange ones for a Mini are too soft.

Note, Konis can be repaired to new condition (I had some done years ago), but I don't know if Proven Products Albury are still the import agents?
Proven Products website proven.com defaults to Ikon now, which is just motorbike stuff... :roll:

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 12:46 pm 
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Location: Manly NSW
What the gents above said plus;
I fitted the yelow ones two years ago and they are excellent. Got them from Pole Position on Gordon Ave in Geelong. Speak to Hayden.
Check, but I believe they also do the Koni repair service. I seem to remember there wasn't much difference between that and a new set.

I cut a small hole in the back panel to fit the passenger side top mount.
Drilled a small hole and then used some tin snips. Made the job (and any future one) a lot easier. Just be careful with the initial hole with all the tubes on the other side. The hole is approx the size of a postcard, just enought to get two spanners in there. Doesn't make any difference to the strengh of the panel.

Apart from removing the fuel tank it's a very simple job.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 1:10 pm 
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Yeah, just want to replace to original spec. I've found a product code from Koni website 80-1794sport, for rear yellow shocks. Can anyone confirm this is correct for me? Sorry, I know, but its never simple finding parts for a mini as they usually fall under older models, like morris, leyland or something. Come in $226 pair.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 1:14 pm 
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Pretty sure I still have all the blurb. I'll check tonight.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2014 1:21 pm 
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You guys are legends!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 12:03 pm 
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One last question, are these shocks adjustable and if not, is it worth getting them as I wouldn't mind lowering a fraction. Is there a big price difference?


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 1:11 pm 
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MiniBob wrote:
I cut a small hole in the back panel to fit the passenger side top mount.
Drilled a small hole and then used some tin snips. Made the job (and any future one) a lot easier. Just be careful with the initial hole with all the tubes on the other side. The hole is approx the size of a postcard, just enough to get two spanners in there. Doesn't make any difference to the strength of the panel.

Ha...man after my own heart. I've often wondered about this. Seemed possible but also looked like maybe the tank coming down over the top of the shock meant that maybe I still wouldn't have access. Didn't have a spare shell to experiment with :lol:

Any chance of a pic to show position?



nixphotopix wrote:
One last question, are these shocks adjustable and if not, is it worth getting them as I wouldn't mind lowering a fraction. Is there a big price difference?


Adjustable shocks means the resistance is adjustable, not the height. Unless you mean that because you are going to lower it you want them harder?

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 4:36 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Proven Products website proven.com defaults to Ikon now, which is just motorbike stuff... :roll:

Proven Products took over the manufacture of Koni's Motorcycle shocks. Ikon is an anagram of Koni.
I understand that they still do Koni stuff but my contact with them is overseas at the moment so I can't get a current update!


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 12:25 pm 
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smac wrote:
MiniBob wrote:
I cut a small hole in the back panel to fit the passenger side top mount.
Drilled a small hole and then used some tin snips. Made the job (and any future one) a lot easier. Just be careful with the initial hole with all the tubes on the other side. The hole is approx the size of a postcard, just enough to get two spanners in there. Doesn't make any difference to the strength of the panel.

Ha...man after my own heart. I've often wondered about this. Seemed possible but also looked like maybe the tank coming down over the top of the shock meant that maybe I still wouldn't have access. Didn't have a spare shell to experiment with :lol:

Any chance of a pic to show position?

Found some pics.
Initial hole, drilled it, then tin snipped just big enough to get the lock nut on with two spanners. Judged and measured the initial hole from the opposite side.

Image[/URL][/img]

Image[/URL][/img]

Image[/URL][/img]

Image[/URL][/img]

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 2:36 pm 
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Ummm, so um yeah. This is what I found this morning when I took off the right rear wheel to remove the shock and install the new set I purchased to replace.ImageImage
The rubber is all deteriorated and the shaft is loose. What is this part? And what do I need to get to fix this problem, is it just the rubber bushes or something more serious? It really Sucks getting surprises like this.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 3:15 pm 
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That's the rubber boot on the knuckle joint.
Best to replace the joint complete, they are cheap.

Beware if those HiLos are Minisport UK's Adjustaride? ones, as they take a bigger diameter knuckle.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 3:29 pm 
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"I cut a small hole in the back panel to fit the passenger side top mount.
Drilled a small hole and then used some tin snips. Made the job (and any future one) a lot easier. Just be careful with the initial hole with all the tubes on the other side. The hole is approx the size of a postcard, just enough to get two spanners in there. Doesn't make any difference to the strength of the panel.

Ha...man after my own heart. I've often wondered about this. ..."

A dodge not unknown to the Works rally team some years ago ;)

Cheers, Ian


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 2:40 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
That's the rubber boot on the knuckle joint.
Best to replace the joint complete, they are cheap.

Beware if those HiLos are Minisport UK's Adjustaride? ones, as they take a bigger diameter knuckle.


Ahhh, that sounds like good news, I had no idea I had HiLos/Adjustarides. These are aftermarket right? Does that enable to adjust the height of the car or just firmness of ride. If the shocks are original factory fitted (Red koni by the way) would it be worthwhile installing the new yellows I purchased, I mean what is the lifetime of the originals approx? The right hand side seemed ok and didn't look like it was leaking. However I haven't checked the left behind the fuel tank. I had been told one of the shocks had started to weep.


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