I want to change all the engine mounts on my 1976 clubie.
they don't look to bad but I think there due to be changed.
just wanted to know if these are all the parts I need
2*Mini Genuine engine mounts ( ARE THESE THE BEST ON THE MARKET ?)
http://minisport.com.au/prod721.htm

4*Mini engine steady bar 'HARD' bush kit (poly)( ARE THESE THE RIGHT ONES FOR MINI STAY BAR ROD)
http://minisport.com.au/prod1629.htm

Mini staybar inner metal bush (NOT SURE WHAT THESE DO OR IF I NEED IT)
http://minisport.com.au/prod682.htm

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks bud
Anything eles it should change at the same time

Micool

Everything Doc said, but make sure the mounting holes in the new mounts are in the right place. Some have to be filed or you won't get them in. Doc had a post on here as to how they are filed if you need to.

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Dalmeny

Also, some newer mounts can be a bit thicker than they should be. I opted for the mounts with captive nuts - took me hours to get it in place, even after leaving them in the vise overnight. Those genuine ones should be better.

The ones I slotted out were Quinton Hazell Brand. This company has now gone belly up, and their mounts are NLA.
Rover ones are still the best.....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

There is a guy in Cyprus selling new Mowog mounts. Check UK Ebay. They are cheap too.

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The bitterness of poor quality (or Crappy Workmanship) remains LONG AFTER the Sweet Taste of Low Price is forgotten.

Dr, the last ones I got (2 years ago) came from the UK (Hudderfield I think) with no packaging and they needed filing.

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Dalmeny

QH's ones were needed serious filing or milling. Always did. The hole pitch between the plates was 4mm out. This error made them appear a whole hole out if you bolted 1 side in first then swore at the other...

@dalmeny,
All the QH ones I've bought here were in a QH bag. Maybe in UK they buy in bulk...
The other, cheapo ones that are too thick can be fixed by slotting the holes too, their thicker rubber causes the same alignment problem.

[edit]
Here's my pic again, you can see how I've slotted them 2mm up on one plate and 2mm down on the other.
I then tack weld 2 hex nuts inside with the MIG, as I can't be arsed stuffing about with spanners on the 2 rear bolts.


IMGP2038 by k_green1310, on Flickr

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So should I but it with the captive nuts http://minisport.com.au/prod740.htm
or
Should I go with Mini Genuine engine mounts http://minisport.com.au/prod721.htm
and use the Mini Engine mount bolt holding tool ?? http://minisport.com.au/prod2374.htm

I found the captive nuts are too soft, they strip easy.
Better to buy genuine stock mounts, and weld nuts in if you want.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yeah, I bought the ones with the captive nuts, and I can't say I was impressed. As I mentioned earlier, they're too thick which made getting them in a nightmare, and the metal is quite soft.

We have now sourced the correct thickness engine mounts to suit Minis.

21A1902 <B>


The bolt pattern is also now correct.
No more filing.

Stock is due from the UK within the week.

Hope this info helps.