Dry subframes have a spacer on top, but wet ones don't.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

maybe the way you drive Jarred? I've seen your fb messages..

Since welding up Nav's I have seen another subframe cracked in the same place as his, on another car but on the drivers side.. quite common..

His was also starting to crack in the place where you say yours is..

I'd have to agree with Gt Mowog and others and say those springs are causing you drama's, especially with the kind of roads you have out there in woop woop..

I would either get all your seams on the subframe welded and strengthed up better, (ask nav, his going to do it i believe) orrr go back to donuts..

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Bluey-1973 Clubby - 1330, high lift, big cam, 7 port madness in progress..

Gumby-1978 Minivan, British Racing Green - 1310, high lift, mild cam, enlarged porting and chamber shape with big valve head, supercharged build in ever slow progress!

ok,,, i`ll let you all in on what actually happens here

the frames crack because the top arm effective;ly "Levers" the side-walls of the tower down-wards

when the suspension bottoms out, the top arm hits the bump-stop rubber & levers/pulls the tower downwards & the top plate can`t go downwards because it`s attatched to the baulk-head

& them`s the facts,,, that`s actually what happens,,, have a look at the brace that the bump-stop rubber is attached to, i`ll bet it`s dented/bent up-wards, the arm then pivots on this & levers the rest of the frame down

weld & strap them,,, don`t just weld the cap back up, make sure you strap them because the straps will hold even if/when the cap weld cracks (again)

the frames will last & last & last when you do this right

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

so it due to a Raily Road crossing or a Bridge then

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Matt does live near both. Hmm. lol

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looks like i am seeling some springs who wants them haha

my van has no problems at all.

no cracks smooth ride, been running them for a while now.

i think you have the car way to low, did you buy minitastic springs? they are the best there is.

take a photo of it side on so we can see. i have about 3 to 3.5 fingers clearance between wheels & arch.

you can not have it below normal ride height with these springs unless running race springs as they have less travel, i have the fast road, I have mine sitting a tad bit higher to get a bit more travel as my van is a bit on the heavy side compared to you.

as i said i have had not one problem at all as far as cracking go's

i cracked of a wheel arch but that was due to having it to low testing them, wheels scrubbing and hitting a huge pot hole trying to avoid a truck.

it is trial and error but i love them & not had a problem at all & would not go back to cones.

taken the harshness out big time!

one thing i'm going to stand by of late with mini parts is you get what you pay for.

listen to the guys advice they know to much

i think you have another problem if it keeps cracking though.

checked all rubbers bump stops etc.

keep that in mind.

i have the semi race springs i brought from a guy off hear ages ago cant remeber who it is and it is bottoming out i had to replace my bump stop twice cause they was smashed

and my car is as hight as it can go basicly if i go higher my drive shafts will hit subframe

Bingo.

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Care to elaborate?

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There maybe a few different types of these springs getting about, however, as far as I am aware, it is simply not (yet) possible to replace the rubber donuts with normal springs, maybe in the future.

<EDIT> Oh and when they do become available, I'll be up the front of the que.

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