Um I am probably going to get nailed for this but I have to replace the timing belt on a twin cam head and was wondering how you ensure that the whole thing doesn't go out of whack when you have the belt off? I know this isn't strictly Mini (just imaging I have a $5000 Mini KAD head or something).

Cheers

Matt

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au

www.ultratune.com.au

Sorry i just had to...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Read the workshop manual first!
There are timing marks on the pulleys that you can line up to make sure the belt goes on right.

Or....

If it is on an engine with good access to the timing belt you can cut the old belt in half while it is still on the engine, use a Stanley knife and spin the motor a bit at a time until you have a slice right around the belt. Then remove the outside half of the belt and slip the new belt half on, then remove the other half of the old belt and slip the new belt all the way on.

This will not work with all engines but it will work with some.

Yep there's usually a mark on each cam pulley that corresponds with the TDC mark on crank.
Line them all up, put car in 4th gear with handbrake on (if it's still in car).
Loosen the tensioner. Slide the belt off. Slide new one on with slack part of belt at tensioner. Apply tension and lock. Check marks still aligned.
Rotate engine forwards 2 full turns and make sure all the marks still line up. I then readjust tensioner, to be sure, to be sure.. (hey it was a FIAT...).
Then you are good to go.

Biggest PITA with all Jap motors is you need to pull the crank pulley off to get the ^$#* cover out. Not so with the FIAT... no cover under there!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Well I wouldn't move anything, but to be sure I get the liquid paper out and mark the cams and a bearing cap. You can quickly check if the cams have moved. Put the car in gear with the handbrake on and the crank won't move, so that shouldn't be a problem.

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Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

Sheesh Matty...after all the work you have been through.... you scrimping on the basics .....

you are gunna need a manual...or a friendly mechanic who knows a a bit about Starlets

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"Show me the Mini!"

Just so you all know it seems workshop manuals for the Starlet GT are rare as rockinghorse crap, but I spose I could get one for the standard starlet which came with an EFI 16 valve engine in OZ. Thanks for all your help. If it doesn't work I can bolt a large piece of glass to the top and use it as a coffe table!!!!

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au

If a Starlet GT one is anything like as common as a Daihatsu Mira (also owned by Toyota-san) one, good luck!
It's all a conspiracy, to drive you into the arms of the Toyota Dealer network..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ahhh another liquid paper user. i have seen motors where any timing marks they were there are hard to see or gone..i swear by liquid paper..

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No longer Ms Westwoods mini outside her original kings road shop

Doc it is funny you should say that I ended up mashing my throttle position sensor to mush against the engine bay while dropping the starlet in the car. $132 bucks later..."Trust Genuine Toyota Parts".

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au

Yeah right..
I had the misfortune to once own a `80 Toyota Celica Liftback. There was a hole under the windscreen big enough to put your hand thru- anyway when it rained the water used to run down inside the A pillar and drown the headlamp relay. (what a stupid place to put it, hehe).
Anyhow I rang the local dealer- should always use Genuine Toyota parts, right?
A new relay was $72 and of course they had none- why would a spare parts dep't carry stock, FFS?
So I went to Pick 'n Payless and got 4 of 'em S/H for $5. And yeah, I eventually fixed the hole- fibreglass was made for Toyotas!
"Oh what a feeling.. T*****"

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Doc, getting the crank pulley is just a case of loosening the nut (I gather I need a BF Breaker bar) or do I need a puller as well. As I think I might have to remove it to get the lower cover off (Yeah this isn't a Fiat either). Any help appreciated.

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au

OT: Geez Doc! How many cars have you owned??? 13 minis, 4562 Fiats, 20 fords and now a celica as well?!?

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Depends on how tight the fit on the crank. I have a cheapo harmonic balancer puller, works a treat. Around $30 to buy if you need one.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.