Hey guys,

well i got my car back on the road on the weekend and its running pretty well apart from the clutch slip.

now i think i would be putting out 120 to 130 hp at the wheels and i just cant get a flamin clutch to hold the torque, i am currently using a borg and beck ceremetalic plate with a grey diaphram spring and when it was new (bout 100 miles ago) it held fine but now it is starting to slip like the last same set up did.
I have been on many different websites and looked at all clutch plates and diaphrams and there are a few brand with many different part numbers
one double grey has a part number of CP2084 42 while another has AEG 483 and are such different prices.

what do you other big hp guys run? i have been told my set up should be ok but other have a double grey with a puck button plate.

any help would be great

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

Grant,

I would ring Greg at mini classic he runs huge hp find out what he recomends.

Smiles

Bara

HI Dean, that is one place i have not tried yet will see what he says and let you all know

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

good to hear its all running ok apart from the clutch. have you been on the turbo minis uk site?? i cant find the link but they are all making big hp on there minis. Greg at mini classic runs NA dosnt he?? alot of difference in torque then what a boosted engine makes.... Do they make button clutchs for minis??

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1974 Moke - 998cc
76 Clubman B16a2 Vtec AWD Turbo 12.9@105mph
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9PW49e1hYs

here is the link for all to see.

yeah they make buttons, paddles sintered etc etc, some uk guys say my set up is goo others say a harder presure plate only some say both and some say just the friction plate.

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

so is my standard setup going to be fried when I get the turbo bolted up??? Screaming performace are making me an intercooler that is the same size as the fonr grill if your interested, maybe make two and get it cheaper?

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68matic: "i havent seen much head in my life "

Wrong shape ? - But if the price is right, I'll be in . . .

I killed a "deluxe" clutch in about 100 Klm....
Killing a "Blue" as we speak
Orange coming soon. . . .

Not going for a puck or ceramic face yet......
J

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Pucks and ceramics have less friction than a stock plate, and they need more clamp pressure to grip.
I would run a grey diaphragm with a competition (AP Racing) clutch plate.

After running a puck clutch in my Fiat once, I would never have another for road use.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Grant, have you got your clutch set up properly? Diaphram spring flat, drive straps and back plate horns all set up right? Appreciate the torque you're making, the grey should handle it, but if you don't have it set up properly, it will slip. Steve

This article may help..
http://www.minimania.com/web/DisplayID/ ... ticleV.cfm

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

well i think it maybe the setup not quite right, i have swaped that many different flywheels and back plates over the years i guess it could really be all over the place,

i have never even looked at it making sure the spring is flat or just prior to being flat,

I have been advised to follow this process, please tell me your thoughts.

place bolted up clutch flywheel backplate etc assembly in a press allowing the pressure plate to slide through the bed, using the presss place pressure on the diaphram where the release gearing runs until thespring is either flat or just prior to being flat, then using either i dial indicator on the face of the diaphram set it to zero then remove the pressure from the press and take a reading from the dial indicator and that amount needs to be removed from the legs of the back plate.

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

Yep it sounds right to me. I'm about to do the same, tomorrow.

BTW, you can see looking in the side of the cover whether the spring is flat, or not. I bet with most Minis including mine, it's not... yet.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

That's the way to do it. You can also use 3 drive straps. If so, then the thickness of 1 strap comes off the baclplate horns too (about 0.032"). Once that done, have some spacers made up to have the staps parallel to the flywheel. You should try to get the spring flat rather than just prior to it for best results and kindness on the centre main thrusts. Easy as! Steve

Edit: Use a new clutch plate (the one you're going to use) when doing the measuring.

yep good stuff, well i have got three straps at the moment but i never removed that off the posts (oops)
when yo say the straps have to be paralel to the flywheel do you mean when all bolted up?

well a busy weekend again doing clutch set up

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

Yes- they should be parallel when all bolted up.
Just turn up 3 steel spacers, or come over here and I'll make you some- I'm doing mine today.
I just checked my new clutch setup- it's out by .035" (1 strap thickness) so I'll clean the backplate up in the lathe then take .035" more off the 3 posts... then it's off to GR to balance it all.

ps. I've also got to surface grind .015" off the back of all the crank thrust washers (Cooper S crank into 1100S block)..
Fun, ain't it..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.