Thanks for the confirmation about the 'box Kev, sounds like a cinch if I can find the reverse idler/shaft.

My current 1098 is running a little bit hot at the moment.... after about 5min at the traffic light she'll go up and nearly boil. I'll have my radiator cleaned out for the rebuild. So I've come to making a decision about the water pump, there's a fair price difference between the std water pump and the high flow type models. Are the high flow pumps a good option or do they simply put the water through the radiator too quickly for it to cool down?

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

For a 1275 get the hiflow pump- that's what it's designed for.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Spent the arvo down the coast getting more stuff sorted...

Turns out my guy does have a remote change for me STOKED. I was beginning to lose hope & had almost decided to settle for my shitty rod change.

Further good news when I went and met the engineer. He's a pretty cool guy, young bloke. Seems to know his stuff. I warned him about the valve lengths and he said he was going to check the spring tension anyway. He's bored it 20 thou over, has Hypertec pistons going into it and has line bored the crank mains. The head is going to be ported and put through the flow bench a few times to see what they can get out of it. I left them with the yellow bible to see if they could get any tips outta it.

My guys supplying me with a 3.44 diff... what should I pay him???

One of the final choices is for the universal joints that I should run. At this stage I'm going for pot joints because thats what I have currently on the 1098 and we wanna make the switch as easy as possible (its being done the day before I go to Japan so don't need hickups). Is there any really really good reason to push the envelope and swap to rubber uni's???

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

Pot joints are better than the old rubber ones, and S U/Js are just too expensive these days.

Stick with the pots- I've put them in Barney's S-K remote box too.

re the 3.4 diff- depends what you can swing. I just got 2 diff pinions off kazjim for $20 each..
so I'd say $100 tops for a diff.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Cool that makes things simple then.

What are the chances of me getting hold of the mounting bracket for the remote housing that you mentioned Kev? Are they a bit like hen's teeth?

Everything is coming together really well I think. $$$$$ but i'm pretty sure it will be worth it.
Main thing I've gotta get sorted is the discs now.

dewey

Just an aside:
Would a set of cooper 'S rods and EN16 crank be a fair trade for a 2.9x diff? My mate is giving up the rod/crank for this diff that he wants to put on his highway runner.

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dwightgunning.com

My water pump and center oil pickup just arrived.

Is the oil pick up set in the gearbox when its built or can you just slide it in before you bolt the box to the car? Reason is the box is 2hrs away from the pickup and I don't feel too much like driving it down there or paying for a courier right now.

Ordered the dellorto parts from Sydney this morning.

It's raining cats and dogs outside but I feel like going for a drive since I put new weather seals, felts and quarter panel seals in the other day.... plus the Nissan dizzy isn't likely to get wet


dewey

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dwightgunning.com

kazjim has a bunch of the remote brackets, I got one yesterday.
Centre oil pickup must go in before cluster gear is fitted.

And, don't just shove the central pickup in and bolt the box up. Put into reverse, and check the shifter fork and gear misses the filter mesh. Last 2 remotes I built, I had to bend the pipe to clear!
<edit> But they are usually OK in a rodchange box.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I just put my thumb through my brake master cylinder. Spewing. It had a bit of a hairline crack in it which was letting a little bit of fluid seep through. Anyway I pressed it a bit and the whole thing caved in.

I've managed to scrounge a replacement plastic container from my mechanic but it looks in pretty bad shape as well. Whats the best brake MC setup I could convert to? Dual system clubman type?

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

I would just buy the new single line replacement master cylinder, which has a `round' plastic tank. About $110.
Don't believe any bull about Clubman tandem MCs being better. They're not. Ask 13secmini..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Just a short update, I'm actually in Japan snowboarding at the moment.


I got the motor in the day before I flew out. It sounds really good and I'm really impressed with the remote 'box. A few things to note... We didn't put the dellorto on yet... didn't have a hole heap of time so we just put the 1.5 SU from my 1098 on board to get us through the run-in period.

My guy couldn't fit the centre oil pickup because of the casting in the gearbox housing. Needs a touch up with a file or air-grinder.

I've left the car with my guy so he can look after it and run it some while I'm OS.

dewey
PS. Kev, if you're getting around to doing the substacks any time, I'm definitely in, even if I'm unreachable. I get back on the 12th.

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dwightgunning.com

I just got home today. I called up to see what the status is with my car.

Everything seems to be going pretty wheel except there is a bit of an oil problem in the rocker cover. It seems that the oil isn't draining away as quickly as it's being pumped up there... the carby is sucking oil down the vacuum pipe on occaisons and making things a bit smokey for any cars behind.

We've got a breather on the clutch case. It was suggested that this could be the problem and we should have the carby vacuum connected to the clutch case?

My guy has tried replacing the rocker post that has the oil channel with a newly drilled one of 1/2 diameter but its not remedied the situation.

Any ideas? And its good to be home!!!

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

Yes the carby vac (if you have it on an an SU) should be connected to the clutch case one. If you are pulling vac from the rocker cover only, it may impede oil draining.
I just run both breathers to a 1L vented oil bottle!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Dr you should do a Photo of your engine bay for your breather set up

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Woohoo!

I caught a lift down to pick up my car yesterday. Went for a bit of a burn with my mate who's been driving it for a few weeks and he gave me the run down on some of the intricacies of the engine.

The needle in the carbie is running the car somewhat lean at higher revs so I've gotta take it easy. You can feel heaps more pull if you give it the choke when you stomp on the pedal.

I'll strap the dellorto on when I get some substacks and socks. I'm a little bit concerned with how the breather setup will work with the dellorto after reading Dr Mini's post in the Engine Breathers & Carbon Canister thread.

Also, we've rigged up an overflow tank because the car heats up above the 1/2 way point on the guage and pretty much hits the H whenever I stop at lights for more than about 15 seconds. Not enough time to wait for a sequence. So I'm a little concerned about that too. As soon as you get moving again it drops back down to a nice temp. Do you guys think an electric thermal fan will help?

Oil pressure sat on a shade above the 25 dash on my guage the whole way home.

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

Looks like you do have an overheating problem.. is the fan the right way round, or radiator blocked?
Elec fan won't fix it- find the real cause..

Oil pressure is too low. Something is wrong- faulty gauge, relief valve stuck, etc..
Should run 60psi or better when new. Idle might go down to 25-30.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.