I am putting on stepped drums and so needed to change the stubs with cooper studs so that the wheels can bolt on. My problem is that I can't undo the front hub as it spins, I've unfortunately already removed the drum and the studs so not sure what I should do to get some resistance. I tried putting the car into gear which I thought would have not allow the hub to spin but it didn't seem to work.

Any ideas?

Also the front left drum, one of the screws which hold the drum on is completely screwed and I can't remove it. It seems seized, I''ve tried using WD40, gave it a couple of hits and also tried tightening it to break the rusty seal but not seems to have worked and I don't like the amount of metal left to try and turn it.

Now my poor mini's up on bricks until I can sort this out.

I just wanted my nice wheels on it.

I also noticed the dust cover of the drive shaft was split, I'm guessing somewhere like Karcraft can get me a new one of these?

To stop rotation try lowering the other side wheel onto the ground and leaving it in gear. Should lock things up! Failing that try placing onr end of a lever between 2 studs on the hub and rotate it till the other end hits the ground. this should stop rotation now place your spanner/ socket onto the nut and undo it. Finally to undo a frozen bolt try some heat on it, an oxy tip or butane has the tendency to get thermal expansion of dissimilar materials to work for you. even is it wont loosen when hot, throw a cup of water on it and the cooling will shrink the threads apart and break the bonding.

Good Luck

If the screw won't come out, I'd drill it until the csk head is just gone, pull the drum off and you can then get some vicegrips onto what's left.

I made a tool to hold hubs- just a square plate with 4 stud holes, a big hole in the middle, and a lump of bar welded to it. I just slip it on with 2 nuts, put brick under the bar, and bingo!

You could get an old Mini wheel and weld something to it, same deal.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

My problem with the hub is that I've already removed the studs from the hub (stupid I know) as while the hub was on the car it was easy to knock out. might go with the put the wheel on the other side and put into gear.

Just put 2 of the old studs back in, loose, undo it, then knock 'em out again.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I can't knock 2 studs back in as the axle is still on the car and I can't swing a hammer from behind it. What about putting them in loose or would that just damage the spline?

Put them in loose with a bit of oil, then do the nuts up. Easy!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

good idea. Thanks.

BTW what type of grease do you use on the hubs?

I also thought that I should do as much brake et al stuff as i can while it's up on bricks. Thought that I'd do the shoes (look a bit worn) the dust cover of the front right drive shaft is ripped so that I guess. Would it be worth recon'ing/replacing any of the cylinders, I like how the front has twins even on a crap standard one like mine.

only replace them if there pissing out fluid inside your drum.. the "dust boot" i replace heaps of them at work, did 2 today actually, not on a mini but same deal.. its pretty easy if you know what your doing, but the cv boot would cost roughy about $15-$20.. do you know how to take the cv shaft out or?

good luck anyways

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GTi Turbo'd mini, abused daily

put the wheel back on drop the car to the groud and undo the castle nut easy
makka

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