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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 7:38 am 
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smac wrote:
I thought 1098 and oversize pistons were a little tricky to find, or is sombody making them now?

oh, and somebody is running a 2" SU on a 1030??!! (and how is that an HS6?)

Graham Russell is getting +.080" and +.100" pistons made for 1098s. Available real soon.
Meanwhile you can get Hypatecs in 20, 40, 60 sizes.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 8:30 am 
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oh, and somebody is running a 2" SU on a 1030??!! (and how is that an HS6?)


:oops: I meant to write 1 3/4" SU.. :oops:


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 8:32 am 
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1275cc
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drmini in aust wrote:
The cam is the major component in an A series that determines its character, and performance or lack of.

Aaron, have you actually DRIVEN an RE13 much in traffic?
Particularly in 1098 and 1275 longstroke motors, they are hardly a pig.
Various people on this forum run 1098s with an RE13, some commute daily right across Sydney to the airport. With their wife driving.... :lol:

My advice- if sticking with a single HS4 carb for a `warm' engine then maybe do as you say, but if the cam is part of a comprehensive hot-up including head, carb(s) and exhaust system to get some serious power, an RE13 is bloody hard to beat. 8)
But it's too tame for me, my `traffic 1360' runs a prototype RE282... :P


I have driven an re13 and sure the lager the bore the less of a pig it is. But, My point is, that the RE13 isn't a cam for daily driving, Graham is the first to tell you as such, sure it has buckets of power etc, but it's not the only choice. What I am trying to say Kev, is that it's not the only choice. GR will more than likely talk you into a different CAM for a daily.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 8:49 am 
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+.100" ? what does that take it to? mmmmmmm

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 8:54 am 
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+.080" with 1098 crank = 1166cc.
+.100" with 1098 crank = 1184cc... :lol: 8)

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 8:56 am 
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i what even bigger than .100" :P :P :P :P

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 8:59 am 
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+.120" with 1098 crank = 1202cc.
Yes I have heard of one this size. 8)

If you go Imp 68mm pistons (good UK ones are rocking horse) you get ~1220cc.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 9:01 am 
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1220 = ~+0.160 :D

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 9:25 am 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Graham Russell is getting +.080" and +.100" pistons made for 1098s. Available real soon.


I spoke with Graham yesterday - he is very frustrated as the order is "missing" apprarently the shipping company can't find it or something....looking...looking ......looking :?

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 9:27 am 
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aaron wrote:
don't go buy anything yet!
Seriously, you have to think about what you want the motor for first. If a Daily driver you don't want an RE13, there a pig in traffic, Even GR will take you out of it. He has other options which would be far more suitable.
Going 1100 is a good idea if u can find an 1100 crank. as you are adding 100cc, but you may as well think about going a 80" oversize, as there going to be available shortly too.
Before buying an engine rebuild kit, shop around, not just on the net or ebay, but call the various shops and see what there best price is, also there's no point buying a kit until you know what size bearings you need, what size thrusts etc. If your thinking about doing a rebuild yourself, stop and think. You havn't done on before and yes now is a good time to learn, but do you have anyone to teach you?
If your going to have someone else build it, well, u need to get profressional that is going to give you a warrantee. Too many time's latley have i heard horror stories of motor's that have been pulled down after a back yarder as "rebuilt" it only to find a disastor.

I guess what i am saying Tait, is to think it thru and don't throw all your money away by building something not suitable for what the car is for.


Cheers
Aaron


i have an 1100 crank from the old engine to use..... will give GR a call and have a talk at different options.....

Thankks for the tips aaron....

i was thinking of having the mini wreckers down this way handle the rebuild..... but i am going to give GR a call.....

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 10:10 am 
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Tait, Linc and Tom are OK, but I think I would use GR, or there are other engine machinists up here with a good reputation.

Graham is only an hour and half away, you can drop all the bits down one day, then pick em up another when ready!

Graham did my Moke engine, excellent job, the crank grinding was some of the best I have seen, his crank man is ace!

I find Grahams pricing very fair too! 8)

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 11:42 am 
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For those just wanting a Crank done...GR's Crank Man is Spiro from St George Crankshafts 02 9674 1201 in Seven Hills :wink:
And take his word as Gospalb he a Great bloke also :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 11:52 am 
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Yes Gaf, Even thpough I knew Spiro would do the crank, I thought it was just as easy to give everthing to Graham, I was happy with the price! 8)

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 11:53 am 
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yep and I totaly agree better than going to two places :wink:

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 11:41 am 
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what sort of turn around times does GR have......

once i have this clutch fixed i will be looking into getting a small bore rebuilt and GR sounds the best option.....

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