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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 3:00 pm 
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Slow-Po
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cush wrote:
thermo fans would attach to the same temp sender point and be located in the same place...

who does them?


Rover - any Jap car with A/C fitted will have a factory unit.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 3:01 pm 
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1275cc
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slinkey inc wrote:
Failing that, just thrash out a 998 till it blows up, then buy another, and do the same with that, then when loacl supply runs out import from Japan (thanks Steve!) and continue.

:D


Have we met??!! I've almost lost count of the amount of motors that have been in my car, I seem to change engines as much as do oil changes (hmmm, maybe that's why they blow up??)


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 3:05 pm 
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Should we add a "newly rebuilt bullet proof gearbox" to the list?

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 3:05 pm 
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One of the biggest problems with the mini oil system is where the oil filter is placed in relation to how the oil is sent around the engine, the filter is actually after the oil has been sent through the engine and oil pump and hence any swarf is filtered out after the damage has been done to bearings and oil pump. having a gearbox in the sump is not really a great idea for keeping the oil free of swarf either and the meatl from the gearbox passes right through the engine oil system, you can help by making regular oil changes but you can not totally fix it

No motor no matter what sort is ever bullet proof and considering that the technology behind a mini engine is pretty much 40s and 50s tech they do pretty well, the biggest advances in engine tech have been in the oil that they use and its a shame that a mini with its gearbox in sump can not use these modern oils because of just that, the gearbox will not like the modern oil :D

Jon

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 3:07 pm 
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slinkey inc wrote:
Get a fully rebuilt 'S' motor, certain main strap, better oil pump, better crank, basically better everything, and don't put big exhasut and webers and stuff on to keep the ability to rev low.
:D


i was thinking more details... :P

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 4:10 pm 
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Minispares Crosspin diff :wink:


$508.40 from Karcraft :P


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 4:19 pm 
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for the amount of money it would cost to get an a-series to a bullet proof state, in my opinion it would be better just to put a honda motor or similar in.. but thats not for the purists i know

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 4:26 pm 
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Let's not get side tracked with a conversion debate please. :)

willy, what would a cross pin diff do to help?

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 4:41 pm 
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1275cc
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Crosspin diff is a lot stronger than a standard diff, though I've never managed to bust one (not from lack of trying). I'd say a competition diff pin is enough for most motors.
I would like an LSD though.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 6:04 pm 
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Get it built properly the first time with the Gear box and diff being fiirst, then work your way up. No matter what you do or don't replace you will still have to do miner work or adjustments. Additionaly..Service, Service, Service...as in the changing the oil

Its when something has not been done incorrectly or failed that we have problems or its not serviced or treat it with the respect of a Classic Car :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 6:14 pm 
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u have to expext a few problems. but all i can say is change the oil when ever you can. i have seen cars do 5000km over there service and there is a inch deep chunk of sludge in the oil filter and booth turbos ceased and these are modern engines

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 6:43 pm 
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feralsprint wrote:
One of the biggest problems with the mini oil system is where the oil filter is placed in relation to how the oil is sent around the engine, the filter is actually after the oil has been sent through the engine and oil pump and hence any swarf is filtered out after the damage has been done to bearings and oil pump. Jon

Um.... not quite true-
yes, the filter is AFTER the oil pump, but it is BEFORE it gets into the main oil galleries and lubes anything at all.
The oil comes from the pump, exits the block down the pipe or hoses to the filter, then goes up into the main oil gallery.

Automatics are different in that the filter is on the gearbox casing, but again, it's filtered before it gets into the oil galleries of the motor. :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 7:18 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
feralsprint wrote:
One of the biggest problems with the mini oil system is where the oil filter is placed in relation to how the oil is sent around the engine, the filter is actually after the oil has been sent through the engine and oil pump and hence any swarf is filtered out after the damage has been done to bearings and oil pump. Jon

Um.... not quite true-
yes, the filter is AFTER the oil pump, but it is BEFORE it gets into the main oil galleries and lubes anything at all.
The oil comes from the pump, exits the block down the pipe or hoses to the filter, then goes up into the main oil gallery.

Automatics are different in that the filter is on the gearbox casing, but again, it's filtered before it gets into the oil galleries of the motor. :wink:


SDoc

woulld be a 50-50 thing as when the pressuer relief is closed when low oil pressure as in idling at trafic the oil is not filtered, there have been attempts to add filters before the pump but I have not seen a sucess yet in 40 years and hence gouges and marks in bearing shells, so as I said one of the big problems

Thats what they taught us at BMC when I was a nipper but is old and maybe wrong :D but oil flow cut to filter and top end when relief valve closed

Jon

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Last edited by feralsprint on Fri Jan 05, 2007 7:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 7:26 pm 
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998cc
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Location: ASQUITH NSW, Engine size:1310
what psi does stock oil pump put out, is it 20 something psi,

would a electric pump go better espeicially if you tweeked it to maybe 30+ psi :?

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 7:29 pm 
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Stock oil pump even in a 850 can pump anywhere from 50 upwards, its pretty high compared to most jap or yank stuff

Jon

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