Well the cultus intake manifolds are supposed to be the best for the gti's. Does anyone know if these will fit onto the SOHC 1.6L suzi swift engine aswell? Are they the best type to use in a mini, or are they too big to fit? What intake manifold is everyone else using?

I'm gonna reverse the standard intake so it draws from the passenger side. This should allow me to have neat intercooler piping and such. Fingers crossed. I havent cut it yet, i'm a bit scared. But it should allow for a lot more room for something like a brake booster.

Reason I ask is I've been offered a cultus manifold at a reasonable price. I've read a little on teamswift.net and it appears that they should fit a SOHC head. It's not definate, but maybe I should just have a go and resell if it doesn't fit.

Whats involved in reversing it? Just chop and weld?

AFAIK I think it will fit, I had a 1.6L swift sedan.

Try running a seach on redlinegti.com
(in the forums)

Fair bit on Cultus info on there.

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No more Minis!......For now.

I don't think a Cultus manifold would be any improvement over std on a 1.6sohc
Are you considering fitting a 1.6sohc Suzi into a Mini?
I have serious reservations about these engines, speeking to so called Suzuki experts,
most advise to stay well clear of them, apparently they (the block) has a design fault
that results in cracking around the starter motor housing & main bearing housings.

Check out the Baleno forum web site if you want to read some disaster stories
I'll try & post the link when I find it again

Blue

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Keep shiny side up

Here it is



www.clubaleno.co.uk

Happy reading

Blue

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Keep shiny side up

I couldn't find anything about it on those forums?
I tried searching for:

g16b
g16ba
1.6
sohc
cracking
weak block
design fault
starter motor housing

No disaster stories came up for me?

Hi Alex,

First I have ever heard about it.

Anyway, UK website and UK Suzukis were built in the Suzuki UK factory I believe.

Alll our G13's and G16's came straight from Japan.

The only fault (if you can call it a fault) with the G16B is that if you really want to hit big RPM (over 8500) then forged rods are required.

Also, as said before, dont believe the BS about the crank.

Regards,
Andrew

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"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"

Cool, thanks Andrew. I had a big read up on teamswift last night and all I could find is bent rods. Everyone seemed to know someone who knew someone else who broke their crank, but I couldn't find much first hand evidence of it. So it's still the 1.6 for me

As the Yanks say- "there ain't no replacement for displacement..."

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

as mentioned, all they talk about the crank is pretty much just rumours of people who know other people whos cousin's brother broke their crank.

if the 1.6 crank is hollow like the SOHC 1.3 swift crank then you should be fine with redline untill around 8000rpm.
I have the SOHC crank in my G13B and it revs like no tomorrow.
You'll find with the larger capacity motors that cam set up doesn't make to much power after 7000 to 8000rpm anyway so useless going higher.

you'll get mixed views from suzuki people on redline.com. talking in power stakes, the most powerful N/A swift on forums is the G13B.

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Torque Steer is a very evil thing. Fun..... but evil.

West Aussie Mini Boys Represent...!!!

Cool, thanks for clearing it up.

If I got forged rods, would they have to be custom made? Any idea on how much I'd be looking at for these?

Yes I agree totally, but it is better to go into these things with a liitle forwarned knowledge, be it fact or hearsay.
There is absolutely no point reving an engine past the point where max hp is produced
anyway, all you are heading for is a big bang sooner or later.

Blue

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Keep shiny side up

Blue,

Yep your right. Once max hp is reached, allow me to pick another gear.

Honk,

Forgies will get you some relatively cheap insurance, and with a little breathing (exhaust first, then inlet, then head work) you could push that hp max up the redline by 1000-1500 rpm.

I would concentrate on improving the low down hp though (getting the curve flatter), to enhance the torque curve.

A set of Eagle rods will most likely be about AUD$550-600 ex USA.

Cheers,
Tricky

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"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"

The crank thing is the same with mini's...all you hear about is how weak 1098 cranks are, but i am yet to see one cracked.

I have SEEN a shitload of large journal 1275 cranks snapped though.

Goodluck with it Alex, you'll be right

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