Hi all
My gearbox has problems with 2nd gear synchro.
Looking at dropping engine 1275, and attending to the synchro problem.
Can anyone offer suggestions for parts that should be replaced as a matter of course,
and parts that should be inspected for wear and what tolerances should be allowed.
Also is there particular brands of parts that are better than others?
Any help would be greatly appreciated, seems like a daunting job!
Obviously if theres someone close by that enjoys gearbox's I wouldn't turn any help away.

a manual will be worth its weigh in gold methinks

I've got the 6 speed in my S and think the boxes in them a terrible.. although can't speak for the auto

Wish I could help but still working out how to fix my own

Good luck

It would help if you put your location in your profile so we know where "nearby" actually is

For starters, if 2nd is out then most likely all of the synchros are on their way out. Do you know if you have a remote or rod change box? if you are going to the trouble of pulling out the gearbox and doing the synchros i would be tempted to put a whole kit into the gearbox (depending on your budget). It would be quite sad to put the box all back together only to have something else go in the box

The mini spares gearbox kit including diff pin and planet drive is what I bought. This comes with all bearings and a new layshaft. I would also look into a center oil pickup while your at it.

All depends on your budget really

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Sorry forgot nearby Hampton. Victoria.
Rod change box.

i have had alot of problems with this and my second gear is still not right. the kits from mini spares do look good but just check if they have them in stock. i had to wait 10 weeks and they still didn't have the parts.

_________________
FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

yeah replace the synchro, all the gearbox bearings, replace the layshaft with a competition one, inspect the diff for wear/play and replace parts (competition diff pin).
inspect the gears for chipped/missing teeth

Snoozing: are you talking about the chrysler pentagon gearbox?

hijack here for a second;

68deluxe, what sort of money was that kit landed in oz?

end hijack;


For what its worth, if one thing needs fixing in a mini gearbox, I think its time to do the lot! That is all bearings, check all synchro cones etc. Save you a lot of trouble in two mionths time when you have to pull it all out again!!

Matt

yes, do it all in one shot.
You'll need about $600-700 depending, it varys alot

if your going to do it yourself, get a good manual (as suggested above), i did a centre pick up and layshaft a coupla months ago, and from what i did, its fairly simple stuf if you read the manual, and look realy carfully at how everything goes together before you pull it apart, then its just like a big mechano set, except for the dammm selector mechanism.
good luck

oh, and it goes without saying, clean the box out really well before you start, you dont want to be fumbling arround in the sludge/metal filings/genral crap that is in the bottom of a mini gearbox.

_________________
speed costs....how fast do you want to go...

Not sure how much it is, i bought it last time I was in the UK. Just take the UK price in pounds and tripple it. That is approx how much it will cost landed here in Aussie dollars.

Then call Karcraft and ask them how much they sell it for. Buy the cheaper of the two. Beware that there were low stocks of this gearbox kit a few months ago, not sure if it's still low...

I'm not saying you will need a kit, just get it done right first time when it is out of the car...

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

minispares uk has a postage calculator on their site, its really good for finding postage costs but you will need to sign up an account, and make an order, then cancel it at the postage stage(once you have the quote) it dosent take very long. if they have the parts that is.

_________________
speed costs....how fast do you want to go...

Can anybody shed some light on this?

I have spoken to a couple of mini/morris/moke gearbox people now and one of them suggests that you can get the box working well on the bench but then have problems when you put it back in the vehicle.
He suggests that the engine removal and fitting procedure may have to occur several times before the box is right.
The other guy suggests that all care taken but virtually no guarantees.
Has anyone else come up against this sort of advice?
I would have thought that if its done properly, it works!
Also a return post on another forum wrote
"the tolerances when bolting the motor & gearbox together must be exact
NOTE: there are different thickness gaskets for this - can't remember the correct thickness, but some are way out!"

Can anybody shed some light?

i have had problems with this before i have had the gearbox out 5 times due to gearbox realated problems.the first time the first mostion shaft bearing failed and pumped a hole into the clutch housing. then i broke teeth off the crownwheel. replaced it. when i put it back in seond gear crunched. i just double clutched around for awhile. then i broke another crownwheel. this time i had the box fully reconditioned and i 3.65 crownwheel and pinion fitted. put it back in and seond gear still crunched. removed it again to have a brand new second gear fitted and a new idler gear fitted. put it back in and after about 150 mile the idle gear shaft snapped and blew a hole through my Mk II 's' casing (not happy jan). removed box again and had the internals transfered into another box and another new idler gear. the second gear snycro is still slow but what can u do. next time i will go with a mini spares padstows exchange box. i hope u have better luck with your gearbox.

_________________
FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

Stuart,
2nd gear synchro takes more of a hiding than all the others. During upshifts we are always in a hurry. On downshifts it is under more load than 3rd, and it gets grabbed at speed far more often than 1st gear.

If you have fitted new 2nd gear synchro and it's still slow, the 1st thing I would look at is the 3 little springs inside the 1/2 synchro hub. If weak, they will not apply enough initial thrust to the synchro, so it will never work properly.
2nd possible cause (maybe) is worn dog teeth on the synchro outer sleeve or the 2nd gear, but my money is on the synchro hub springs in most cases.

<edit> cost of these 3 springs is $4.63 each, so no excuse for not fitting new if needed.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.