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 Post subject: flip-front mini's?
PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 7:47 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Thu Aug 25, 2005 3:23 pm
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Location: Canberra
I have just got my 4efte, I have been going along reasonably quitley, in the ACT, converting a Van to a Ute, and was planning on dropping this motor in the Mini.

the problem is I want top put this in a round nose, and I thought getting a glass flip-front might make sence for me, giving me a bit more room to play with.

what penels need to be removed for them to fit?
do you use your own bonnet, or does the whole nose come as one piece?
and how do you secure them?
where do I go to get one?
and how much should I pay?
and should I run into problems at the engineer?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 10:14 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Wed Jun 29, 2005 6:06 pm
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Location: Newcastle
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Morris-Mini-Fibr ... dZViewItem

perhaps a bit late!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2006 10:56 pm 
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848cc
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yeh, thats not a bad buy right there....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 11:19 am 
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1275cc
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Location: Melbourne, VIC.
I'd check with your engineer first! Some engineers don't like flip fronts at all.

But the idea sounds good to me - more access, and you can fabricate removable inner guards (bolted to your new subframe?) to make access even better. :)

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Greendale (near Ballan) VIC.
1971 Morris Mini Moke
1966 Austin Mini
1965 Morris Mini Traveller
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 Post subject: Re: flip-front mini's?
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 12:38 pm 
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1275cc
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HPDesign wrote:
I have just got my 4efte
converting a Van to a Ute

I like the man already.
HPDesign wrote:
and I thought getting a glass flip-front might make sence for me

Any reason why it needs to be made out of glass? Why not just use your existing panels?

P.S. I like your sig, sounds like role call at Asian school.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 12:51 pm 
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The only problem with using metal panels for a flip front is most engineers are concerned about them becoming a guillotine blade and coming through the windscreen to meet you . You can do it if you find an agreeable engineer and use burstproof bonnet latches from a car that had it standard and do a lot of reinforceing . Most engineers will allow fiberglass as they say it should shatter and only come through in little pieces rather than a solid blade . You will also need to run braces from the firewall bulkhead to the front of the subframe to compansate for the lack of bodywork . Mini's are fine without this bracing on the race track but for engineering purposes are required .

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 3:15 pm 
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1098cc
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Is access better? Unless it has a quick release system, I can't see the access, to the distributor in particular, being anything but considerably worse.

UK guys often use the original steel panels as they are much less flexible.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 3:27 pm 
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Postally Verbose
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Location: Northern NSW
Ones I've seen have had quick releases on them so the whole lot's easier access . The one I was impressed with most though was done by a mate up here on a clubby GT . The bonnet hinged like standard but with quick release's on the hinges and the inner and outer guards/stone tray/grille hinged forwards . These were secured by two zeus fasteners on either side and a quick release hinge at the front . If you were just checking things at home or a servo you undid the bonnet pins and popped the bonnet like normal (normal bonnet catches were still used and pins as extra security) for usual easy access . If you wanted to do anything else the bonnet came off in a minute and the rest hinged forwards and then off in a couple of minutes , too easy and the best of both worlds . Plus it was all steel panels and the engineer loved it because it was all stiff , there were firewall to subframe braces as well but all the panels were rigid and stayed where they were supposed to .

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 9:36 pm 
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resident alien
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Here's pics of how mine's connected. Pull the pins and release the rubber latches to flip forward. Can be removed by removing pins from front of subframe. Previous owner didn't give me any type of engineers certificate so who know's?!

Drivers side
Image
Drivers side top connection to body
Image
Drivers side front lower connection
Image
Drivers side pin holding flipfront to frame (red circle) held in by hairpin clip (green circle)
Image
Passenger side pin holding flipfront to frame held in by hairpin clip
Image
Bonnet to side panel connection/seam
Image
Trailer lights bracket (red circle) so front can be taken off and lights easily disconnected
Image
Same as above but from passenger side
Image
Passenger side top connection to body (top view)
Image
Passenger side top connection to body (side view)
Image
Passenger side hole for pin and moke style rubber bonnet holder
Image
Drivers side lower connection
Image
Drivers side lower front connection (top right of pic)
Image
Drivers side front lights from behind
Image
Drivers side where bonnet meets side panel (screwed together)
Image


Last edited by Marvin on Tue Feb 21, 2006 9:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 9:40 pm 
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I DWIVE A BIG TWUCK
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i'd look for duez (sp) clips look alot nicer than the moke bungy style
makka

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 9:45 pm 
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resident alien
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min13k wrote:
i'd look for duez (sp) clips look alot nicer than the moke bungy style
makka

u got a pic?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2006 7:25 am 
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1098cc
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Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2005 5:48 pm
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Location: Brisbane, QLD
i really have my heart set on a flip front as well...not too concerned about it actually being able to flip though...might be easier to just make the whole front removeable :P havent even mentioned it to the engineer yet :P am a wee bit worried he'll tell me to get f*cked if i mention i wanna do a flip-front :P but i spose i have to bite the bullet at some stage :P

personally i really would prefer NOT to go a glass front...i have friends with glass kitcars (mostly shelby cobras) that have flip/removeable fronts that start to get hairline cracks in the paintwork and deform ever-so-slightly...not a good look...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2006 12:56 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Fri Dec 23, 2005 4:04 pm
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that one up above seems to be hitting on the tie rod

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2006 1:52 pm 
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Image
Yeah well... couldn't be helped... not my fault :)


Last edited by Marvin on Wed Feb 22, 2006 9:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2006 6:54 pm 
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998cc
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Joined: Thu Aug 25, 2005 3:23 pm
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Location: Canberra
Marvin, I like the images, :!: they say an image is worth a thounsand word's. you gave me a few thousand there!!!

it seens to be a decent quality job. just one question. is it still all steel. or have they used other materials as well?

and if so. how much does it flex, it looks reasonably solid!!! 8) 8) 8)

definatley along the lines of what I'm lookin for. the accecc is better than stock, and I realy like your idea's on the zeus clipped inner guards and panels so you only have subfame to contend with.

I don't want to put the motor in and then realise I can't take the oil filter off without dropping the engine out. I want to be able to play with my motor and leave some room for mods. :D :D :D :D for when I need more power :evil: :evil:

never heard of a duez (sp) clips. can't google anything but someone called Sophie Durez "Clips" don't think their them. wouldn't mind a hint on where to see/get them

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-doing a Degree in Mechanical Engineering,
and a few conversions:
13B Extend in a 1600
4EFTE in a mini ute (all slowly)


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