Just let me drive it for a day or 2, I'm sure I can help you out and break it for you

Assembling a syncro hub without using special tools and without sending the balls shooting of around the shed, is almost like a 'Right of Passage' or initiation ceremony for the Mini do-it-yourselfer. Special tools take away all the excitement, and the sense of accomplishment at the end just wouldn't be the same!
I find the safest way is to assemble it, is on the bench with the hub almost wrapped in a large rag which will catch any stray shrapnel. A bucket works pretty well too!

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Curly
'64 Cooper 'S' (Group Nb spec)
'67 Mini Marcos GT www.mm7056.wordpress.com

Engine went back in yesterday.Took it for a test drive today and no more crunching into 2nd. Looks like it was weak springs unless I've fixed up something else at the same time.
It goes to show what missing a small thing can cause.
Now to do something about the exhaust.

I've always used a ring compressor to get these blighters in. The other one I find difficult is the locating peg for the locking collar on third gear. Any one developed a user friendly way of doing this ?

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Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)

I use a pair of those very small flat end screwdrivers.. and a few incantations to various deities..

BTW, speaking of mainshafts.. I have reconditioned old mainshafts when the hardening on the nose is worn through. I get them cylindrically ground down to take an `INA' needle bearing inner ring.
I've done this with both 3 synchro & 4 synchro boxes. No problem..
Next time if it wears, you just fit a new one. $10 or less at the bearing shop.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I've had them built back up by Hardchrome Services. Do you remember the part # of the bearing?

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Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)

No # sorry, but they are 10mm ID x 14mm OD x 21mm? long. Grind length to suit.

There is not much load on this end of the shaft, strength lost by grinding it down to 10.0mm is not a problem.

Hardchrome is great for plain bearings but not a great idea for needle bearings to roll on- they flake it off. Ref- Phil Irving's book- `Tuning for Speed'.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.