OK.. As some of you know I am going down the path of a turbo mini with evil..

I have spent the last 2 weeks doing crazy amounts of reading as searching for info..

So I will try and Keep this topic as a guide for the road of doing a metro turbo conversion to your mini.

I hope you find this and any othe info i find good and helpfull, there are still so many things I am trying to get my head around.. but with the more reading the better it gets.

I will add posts to this topic as I see them sort of been in the order of process to the change over..

Enjoy.

Cody

Mod 1:

Making the bulk head mods required to fit the turbo:

OK. to do the most common turbo mod. you will need to mod the bulk head to fit the sucker down the back of the engine..

Note: you can mount the turbo elsewhere with out mods.. but will require more custom work in the long run.


This is the box that will be needed for the bulk head... its the one lower right of the 2.




It can by paid for maid from a few places in the UK. www.avonbar.co.uk and i think www.minispares.co.uk sell them to...

Or be handy and make your own like me here are the engineering drawings in PDF for the bulk head box.

http://www.world4mini.com/pielachtal/bi ... oblech.PDF

what it should look like. (pic from turbominis.co.uk)


I should have the box made in the next week. will update with pics and fitting to the car then.

Cody[/img]

Also the larger one is perfect for Dellorto's and Webers

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Thats cause it is a weber box. but its also big enough to fit split webers in if that floats your boat

how much strength is that taking out of the crossmember. That's a pretty major structural change i would have thought.

Cheers
Aaron

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It does take a bit out. and you will need to get it engineered. when its fitted they say to seam weld it in.

i was reading the david vizard book on the weekend and it says that the engineerz who made the mini wanted the metro turbo to run 7 psi though it ended up that they only were able to run 4psi ,
i mean thats not much performance hey i mean thats the equivalent of a bolt on electric superrcharger relatively uselessssssssss
or perhaps the equivalent of taking the headlight out for cold air intake would b the equivalent

though im just talking stock turbo, if u added a bigger turbo nice bov it would b sweeeet good luck with the making of the turbo kit
minimechanic

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My rides-74 fj40
74 clubman hopefully rego'd soon....
and 76 clubbie van!! - Ratschite after what i found what it was covered in when i found her...
http://photobucket.com/albums/b44/minimechanic/?sc=1

Go have a look see at www.turbominis.co.uk

of a metro turbo setup with SU carb. engine work and a few other bits. 225BHP is the best they are getting out of the A series...

I think the standard 4psi was only a limit at the time you could take them to 10psi with a few small changes.

also you need to be able to suply enough fuel to it to run high boost.

I will be aiming for 170 to 200BHP out of this build and is quite achevable...

Cody

Cutting that box in there and engineering it is not just a case of seam welding it all round. There needs to be bracing around the box in the cabin, to restore the body stiffness lost by cutting it out...!
Talk to Boostedmini...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Kev is right the only way i got mine engineered was to make this brace on the inside.

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

Ahh I'm pretty sure the Vizard book doesnt quite say that....You'll find the engine can handle 7 PSI quite easily. The Leyland engineers electronically regulated the boost at 4 PSI....reason being they didnt believe the gearbox was strong enough to take the tourque that would be produced at 7PSI. By using 4 PSI there was less chance of ghearbox failure.

4 PSI isnt useless either and would certainly beat a car utlising a cold air induction kt. Providing the turbo size is chosen effectively to utilse the boost, it would be very effective.

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[Maverick] 1971 Mini K

Actually the Leyland setup runs 4psi at low RPM, then from about 4500 to 6000 it increases gradually to 7psi.

7psi gives the top end power the engineers wanted (about 20 more than the standard MG Metro) but 7psi at low RPM makes too much torque for the gearbox, hence the limit of 4psi. Keeping the boost low at low RPM also means the compression ratio can be kept high (9.4:1) which means better fuel ecomomy and better torque at very low RPM when the engine is off boost.

It still works well though, the standard 1275 Metro engine (same cam, valve size and carb size as the turbo) makes 63bhp @ 5300 and 69lbft @3400 - the turbo makes 94bhp @6100 and 85lbft @2650.

i'll hav to study the vizard book a bit better......

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My rides-74 fj40
74 clubman hopefully rego'd soon....
and 76 clubbie van!! - Ratschite after what i found what it was covered in when i found her...
http://photobucket.com/albums/b44/minimechanic/?sc=1

And how is the boost controlled from 4psi at low revs to 7psi at high revs??

Look at Vizard's yellow book he explains it there, from what I remember there was some sort of bypass for the turbo it sounded quite clever when I read it.

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss