You know, working on a Mini can sometimes be described as "character building". I was faced with the dreaded task of removing a CV joint from a driveshaft. After many battles over numerous days, nights, cursing and swearing I ended up with the proverbial bloodied nose. I finally resorted to carefully measuring and cutting it off to save the driveshaft. When you examine the inner of the Cv joint you will notice the chamfer that is supposed to be on the back edge to compress the spring clip, was actually a shoulder. This would have never come off!!! Looks like a BMC  machinist FAIL. So next time you struggle for ages with trying to remove one of these just remember you might just have the same scenario. Also check the chamfer before you commit to knocking it on.

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"Investing my Super in a Cooper" &
"Re-living my Surfing Past in a Woody"

Not sure I understand which side of the spider (inner) you are referring to. The taper/chamfer side faces the centre of the car and helps to compress the thin circlip as the drive shaft is inserted into the CV joint. When fully inserted the small circlip ends up against shoulder, which does make it hard to remove! Some CVs pop off easily but some are impossible.
I was once told to file off any burrs from the ends of the thin clip. Not sure how much difference it makes but it is best not to upset the 'gods of aggravation'.
CV in this photo is a 1980s period genuine joint - but unlike the spider in your photo, it also has a counterbore for the thick circlip to sit in.

I came across this hard to remove CV issue a little while back. Out of frustration I bought one of these tools (@ about 65 bucks). It simply ripped the spring clip to shreds pulling it out. Actually, it was quite satisfying doing so after all the swearing.... Its another once-in-a-blue-moon tool in my toolbox, but it really did work quite well, and I'll never endlessly tap tap tap a CV again.

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Hi Mick
How does that tool work , how do you attach it ?

Thanks

Ditto + brand name, part number if known.

Bill, google is your friend , "mini cv joint remover". Found on ebay/amazon/ aliexpress and others $10.81 and upwards

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1970 Mk2 Cooper S under restoration

Just to clarify, yes there is a chamfer on the side that you insert the drive shaft to compress the keeper spring clip as you have shown in your image. It is the other side of the spider inner that should have also had a chamfer as shown on my image of the inner on the left not a shoulder. The shoulder can't compress a spring to allow removal. To make sure you need to flip the inner of the cv over to check, which you would do if removing the balls and cage to clean and grease prior to assembly.

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"Investing my Super in a Cooper" &
"Re-living my Surfing Past in a Woody"

It's been a long time since I've done this job, but I checked the drawings and also the instructions in the workshop manual. I believe the situation is that the chamfered side of the inner race actually goes towards the inside, and not pointing outwards as described by Bill above. The workshop manual is a bit vague, but it gives me the impression that you are supposed to lever the circlip into the slot at the counterbore then push the shaft in. The description of the arrangement given clearly says that the chamfer is on the inside. Now, at the drawings, if you look at the right hand side of the cross section at the "top" you can see the chamfer on the inside. At the counterbore end, there are two styles for location of the thick stop ring - both of which are supposed to sit in a counterbore. The joints are made by Hardy Spicer and supplied to BMC as an assenbly so I only have an assembly drawing.

eightfifty
you are correct yes there is a counter bored shoulder for the square section ring but in addition to that there is a chamfer to aid in the insertion of the shaft and compression of the smaller keeper ring on the tip of the shaft. I have indicated this with the attached marked in red. This is a NOS CV inner that is correct with chamfers on both sides.

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"Investing my Super in a Cooper" &
"Re-living my Surfing Past in a Woody"

Yes I see what you mean. A chamfer would certainly be helpful at both ends. The assembly drawing doesn't show it at the counterbore end, but the drawing isn't great on detail here. I don't have a drawing for the actual inner race on its own which would show better what is supposed to be there. I do remember having the same problem on my 1800 and had to destroy the circlip. The workshop manual says a number of times not to use excessive force, but what do you do when it won't come off. Maybe it's a ploy to sell more drive shaft assembles from Parts and Accessories. Indeed, the original Morris 850 manual (White) says not to dismantle the cv joint at all.

eightfifty
All good. The reason behind my initial post was to make others aware that this may be the reason why a cv is hard to remove from a shaft and to check the inner to ensure that there is a definite chamfer there before installing. I should be all smiles from now , that is, until I meet my next BMC challenge

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"Investing my Super in a Cooper" &
"Re-living my Surfing Past in a Woody"

You can likely see it from the image, but you use the power of the CV nut to pull the clamped shaft out of the CV.
It is brutally effective.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=cv ... RE&first=1

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Back in the 70's I got my mate, who was an apprentice Holden mechanic, to help change the CVs on the Cooper S. He eventually gave up, and we re-fitted them and I just put up with the noise from them....
Now I know why we failed!

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Cooper S Mk2
Cooper S Mk1
ex Cooper S Mk2, various Morris 1100s, 1300s, 1500s, Leyland Sherpa!

I have cut up a few CVs to get at the #@$%& clip and save the S driveshafts!
Tool looks da bomb. Great idea.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.