Just grease them up abit

Graphite powder is a popular weapon of choice..

_________________
You're so square
Baby I don't care

Yeah mine is a week old.
I have a brand new spare sitting in the shed.
So i might run a tiny bit of oil down the one on the car and see what happens.
If that doesnt work ill fit the spare.

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2000 Holden Rodeo TD - The Daily
1998 JDM Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V -The Weekender
1977 Leyland Mini 998cc, 1293cc in the works - The project
1977 Leyland Mini Van - Sold
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe - Sold
2004 MINI Cooper S Chilli - Sold

Yeah and I meant to suggest as adamstuart did by all means try some lubrication.

I tried with the one I had and nothing seemed to help although I don't think I tried graphite.

It's getting harder and harder to get quality stuff now days.

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

Ok i just whipped it out.
Ill lubricate it and put it back in and see what happens i guess.
Ill let you guys know in 10 minutes how it went.
And i dont have any graphite powder.

_________________
2000 Holden Rodeo TD - The Daily
1998 JDM Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V -The Weekender
1977 Leyland Mini 998cc, 1293cc in the works - The project
1977 Leyland Mini Van - Sold
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe - Sold
2004 MINI Cooper S Chilli - Sold

ok,,, i`ll just add to this one a tad,,, just for a bit of "Just in case", because """Sometimes""" the little tube that fits into the firewall for the outer cable to reside is not there, or the cable has been fitted with a bent peddle for so long as to start cutting into the tube &/or the body

this will then make "Any" cable (new or 2nd hand) feel grabby & sticky

get your head down under the dash & make sure the peddle end lines up with the hole properly. just in case

it`s a tricky one & often overlooked

yours maybe fine, but easy enough to check just in case hey?

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Thanks miniman.
I checked and they line up exactly.
Well i run a little bit of oil down the line and put it back together and BAM!!!! best peddle i have felt since i purchased the car.
So thank you guys for all your help. I dont know where id be without you.

Cheers, Rhys.

_________________
2000 Holden Rodeo TD - The Daily
1998 JDM Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V -The Weekender
1977 Leyland Mini 998cc, 1293cc in the works - The project
1977 Leyland Mini Van - Sold
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe - Sold
2004 MINI Cooper S Chilli - Sold

Thats a sig line if ever I saw one


.

_________________

My new one then.

_________________
2000 Holden Rodeo TD - The Daily
1998 JDM Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V -The Weekender
1977 Leyland Mini 998cc, 1293cc in the works - The project
1977 Leyland Mini Van - Sold
1966 Morris Mini Deluxe - Sold
2004 MINI Cooper S Chilli - Sold

Similar symptom so attached to this thread - please move to new if more appropriate.

Just bought mini clubman
1275 with twin 11/2 SUs running #3 needles
Three or four tanks A okay then trouble..... possibility of old fuel lacquer or dirty fuel

symptoms - feels like sticky dash pots or cable . Seemed to start after some bad fuel so i was going along at say 95 alright then when went to add throttle due to load or wanted some speed, car would hesitate , bog and then sometimes take up or sometimes run rough and smell rich. using the stab on and off of pedal would sometimes free it, as would a lower gear higher rev range- but still would come back to hesitate at about the 95km/h.

On purchase i had linkages and cable all freed and checked. Carbs were balanced and road test around town (up to 70km) was very good.


My thoughts based on above
Maybe need new cable, but when unattached feels free with no kinks etc, nice gentle curve.

Used throttle and carb cleaner in running mode -

i took off fuel floats and gave a good clean and blew through jets, added filter before electric fuel pump and will add one close to carbie. Checked for carb leaks - all seems good. Carb gaskets all - good -no false air that i know of.

Extractor 3 2 1 - maybe some small leakbut no extravagant popping as such

Air filters clean

Checked fuel pump - just by eye - no gunk being spat out and seems good consistent flow.

Engine will start, idle and rev without load really well. under load will sometimes sputter, lose power , hesitate , after that sometimes will not return to idle (revs higher)

i dismantled carbs for clean and checked dash pot oil etc. Really smooth and unfettered without dashpot tops but somewhat restricted with them on - can you adjust them?

Any help appreciated

Darryl

If its a sticky cable you should be able to feel it sticking just slowly pressing on the throttle pedal with the engine off. With mine you could feel that you would gently press it and it would suddenly "give".

As far as the dashpots a good test is to remove the black cap and plunger and reach down the throat of the carby (engine off) and gently lift each piston and note does it lift easily and smoothly. Also it should fall back down with a nice metallic clunk.

Put the plungers back in. You will now feel resistance. Thats what the oil is for. It should be now difficult to lift but still fall back down quickly.

What you could try is different viscosity oils. As others have said it may be a matter of experimenting.

Singer sewing machine oil is supposedly very close to SU's specific damper oil. But you can try Auto trans fluid or even straight engine oil. Some people even use no oil.

You could also try experimenting with other needles. The springs should be marked "red" and look the same.

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

thanks phillb

with dash pot lids out , very smooth , with in, harder but they do fall straight back away - I have 20w 50 in ATM. So i'll go back to the cable.

Cheers Darryl

It still might be worth experimenting with a different oil. eg sewing machine oil, Auto tran fluid, etc.

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68 Morris Cooper S Mk1 (*ex 78 1275 LS 4th last built, 70 Morris 1500 OHC & 70 MiniMatic)

Always great when you do a search on Ausmini and find a solution. Thank you. Brand new accelerator cable is grinding. Felt like pedal was grinding but clamped cable open at carby and realised pedal is moving freely and carby linkage moves freely so it must be the cable. Will try some graphite as above, not sure how you get it inside the cable but will have a look. Otherwise some oil. I wonder if copper grease would be good? Messy stuff though. After that will get another cable. Will post result here for the next person that does a search. Cheers.

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club

I had the same issue and disconnected the cable from the carby and it moved freely.
Turned out to be the alignment of the outer cable in the bracket to the direction that the inner had to travel.
Slight bend of the bracket and all was smooth as !

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Find a job you love and you will never have to go to work !

OK, so I slid the cable cover off, ran some copper grease (just because I have some, I am sure any grease would do the same) over the cable with my fingers (not too much or it goes everywhere when you slide cable cover back on) and it is now the most responsive throttle I have ever had. 2 minute job and brilliant.

_________________
Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club