Hi all

Need some help nutting this out . I have a new build which has the following process completed : problem is , wet plugs no spark

-Non vacuum distributor aligned and static timed to 5 degrees via the test light method
- checked for 180 out by setting up TDC cyl 1 , cyl 4 on the rock.
-Diz points gapped to 12-15 thou
-coil resistance tested
- new plugs gapped
-power to coil confirmed

I have not checked plug spark as it’s just me . And I can’t crank and observe (engine in car)

I get wet plugs and absolutely no splutter . Not even a hint .

Could the diz have a bad module ?

Many thanks

_________________
Simonw
Brisbane QLD
1st car - 1964 Mini Panelvan 850
Previous - 1978 Leyland LS 1275 Gold
- 1969 Mini K

The best way to do it on your own is to put a switch disconnect the small wire from the starter solenoid and wire a switch from the battery feed on the sol to the sol coil, the small terminal.
Then you can confirm whether spark is present at the variois places, coil, dizzy leads etc.
If the dissy has points then you will likely not have a module, if the points are firing an old style electronic ignition, then put back to standard electric for testing purposes.
The dissy orintation can be confusing. With the no 1 on compression (confirm by thumb over spark plug hole) make sure the rotor arm is pointing to the lead going to No1.
Please report back
Hope this helps

_________________
Cheers Dave.

If by this you mean both rockers on No. 4 are rocking freely, that cylinder is on it's compression stroke - not No. 1.

You'll be 180 degrees out.

_________________
Cheers,
Rod.
______________________________
'63 Morris 850 (Old Secondhand CAR)

Maybe a bit of confusion over precise meaning of "cyl 4 on the rock"?
Does simonw mean that on cylinder 4, one valve is closing and the other opening.
Or does he mean that both valves on cylinder 4 are closed and the rocking is just the .015thou tappet clearance that is 'rocking'?

I have found that when the plugs get wet, they don't function. Something in the fuel stops the spark arcing across the gap...

Ok so I am having another bash at this ...

Cyl 1 is on compression (finger test ) both rockers loose

Cyl 4is on exhaust stroke (exhaust rocker activated)

Rotor position is as photo

Now I’m going to check the spark at various positions...
The rotor doesn’t look like the correct position to
me .




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

_________________
Simonw
Brisbane QLD
1st car - 1964 Mini Panelvan 850
Previous - 1978 Leyland LS 1275 Gold
- 1969 Mini K

Sorry about the double posting ... (fixed by Mod)

Just measuring the coil again .. very hot and 4.7 ohms resistance across the LT terminals...

No spark at plugs .. so the hunt continues


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

_________________
Simonw
Brisbane QLD
1st car - 1964 Mini Panelvan 850
Previous - 1978 Leyland LS 1275 Gold
- 1969 Mini K

Testing lead resistance - all good . Each one was from 800 to 1100 ohms depending on length

Hooked it all up again and testing spark .

Only firing cyl 1.

2,3,4 no spark ....interesting.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

_________________
Simonw
Brisbane QLD
1st car - 1964 Mini Panelvan 850
Previous - 1978 Leyland LS 1275 Gold
- 1969 Mini K

Simon, check the runout in the distributor lobe.
It’s sounding like you are losing spark when it is running.
With the plugs out - important bit this...rotating the motor by hand with a test light connected to the points side of the coil. In a full rotation you should see the light go on and off to match up with the rotor position for that cylinder. You should have 4 lightbulb moments.
Cheers
Neil

Looks like you have a preengaged starter, are you still getting sufficient voltage while cranking? I had put my lucas starter back in as it was only giving 8V while cranking

Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

The coil is hot because you are leaving the ignition on while testing / working. It will burn it out eventually, best to turn off when not actually testing spark.
The coil should measure @ 3 ohms LT when cold.
If you have a good blue white spark at No1 but not 2 3 4 then the points or rotor or cap or leads fault.
Process of elimination to fix.

_________________
Cheers Dave.

The rotor button could be the wrong one.... that gap looks huge




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

_________________
Simonw
Brisbane QLD
1st car - 1964 Mini Panelvan 850
Previous - 1978 Leyland LS 1275 Gold
- 1969 Mini K

might have something to do with it.............!

_________________
did I tell you that I won a trophy?

You could be onto something!

_________________
Cooper S Mk2
Cooper S Mk1
ex Cooper S Mk2, various Morris 1100s, 1300s, 1500s, Leyland Sherpa!

Well I got the right rotor finally ! And boom fired straight up ...
A welcomed noise after a full rebuild .
Can’t wipe the grin off my face .....

Thanks for all your input guys


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

_________________
Simonw
Brisbane QLD
1st car - 1964 Mini Panelvan 850
Previous - 1978 Leyland LS 1275 Gold
- 1969 Mini K