I would try another coil, first. Chong's did this once years ago when he had the black box and a coil swap fixed it.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks all for the ideas

I had 10 minutes free this afternoon so thought I’d start with a compression test. With all the plugs out:
1&2 cylinders were around 190psi (same as 2 weeks ago)
3&4 cylinders were around 50psi - it was also making the whistling noise when checking these 2

So I’ll definitely pull it down to replace the head gasket and check everything else while I’m going

_________________

What a bugger Tim, at least you know what it is I guess!

Well it was definitely blown between 3&4. There also looks like there was some exhaust leaking from #1 towards the water pump?


All back together this afternoon. It cranks and has oil pressure but no start yet. I’ll try again with a new set of plugs and fully charged battery

_________________

Glad you found the issue!

I wonder if you checked head or deck with straight-edge for warping? I use ARP studs, copper head gasket - I know they make MLS gaskets for the Mini, but never used one on a Mini so can't comment on suitability for these engines. Others maybe could advise.

_________________
Build thread for Supercharged 1275 1967 Deluxe Resto
Build thread for Mini ute conversion 998cc Turbo

Copper gaskets haven't been the same since they stopped using asbestos in them.
ACL monotorque were best on a smallbore (including turbo) until ACL went bust.
The Victor Reinz one made in Germany seems to be best standard one available for them now. It is a steel + composite gasket.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

That's exactly what my head gasket looked like a few weeks ago,
I replaced it with a composite gasket and adjusted the mixture with a colortune plug.

_________________
1967 Morris mini Deluxe
1968 Buick Riviera
1979 HZ Kingswood
1979 CM Valiant
1982 Jaguar XJ6 series 3
2002 VX HSV
2013 Mazda 6
2018 Gt Mustang

Thanks all.

There is a lack of decent head gaskets in stock anywhere at the moment for 998/1098. I’ll try and order a Victor Reinz one - wasn’t sure if they were any good but it’d be nice to have a backup

The head and block were flat when I checked them. I wonder if being at +080 bore the standard gasket isn’t suitable?

_________________

Standard gasket is ok for +.080".
And probably +.100".
However for 68mm bores you need a 1275 gasket and move and plug a few water holes.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi Timmy201,
I used a HYL3610 head gasket from minisport,it arrived the next day from Adelaide

_________________
1967 Morris mini Deluxe
1968 Buick Riviera
1979 HZ Kingswood
1979 CM Valiant
1982 Jaguar XJ6 series 3
2002 VX HSV
2013 Mazda 6
2018 Gt Mustang

Hey Timmy201, what paint did you use on your rocker cover? I think it looks great and am thinking of doing the same. Did you need to prime before using the topcoat?
Mark

Ok thanks Kev!

These old & new ones are Payen GUG702506HG from minispares. They look similar to the ones in that kit. Hopefully this one lasts

Thanks Mark - it’s VHT Wrinkle Plus. I’d practice on some spare metal first as it can be a little tricky to get the thickness and heat right.

_________________

I put in some new plugs today, fully charged the battery and fiddled with the timing. I ended up rotating the distributor all the way anti clockwise and finally got it to start! Just a few things to adjust and check and then back on the road

_________________

How’s it going now Tim? Any thoughts as to why the change to the ign timing though?

No it’s being a real pain...

First up the roadside assistance mechanic tried sweeping the distributor from side to side to see if it was a timing issue so I knew I would have to recheck it

I got it all back together and it would start and run. At this point I realised I hadn’t tightened the bypass hose clamps - then when I went to tighten them I noticed I only had one clamp!

It started up once more and I checked the timing with the dial back light and it was at minus 22 degrees? I couldn’t really work out what was wrong. Now it won’t start at all. Doesn’t help if the black box is connected or not. The distributor is turned all the way anti clockwise and it’ll kick back if I try turning clockwise at all

I think I might have killed the electronic module in the distributor as I’m getting no spark on 1&4. I think this would make the black box loose it’s position too? Don’t know yet but I’m going to borrow another working distributor to try that next

_________________