try stopmasters at brendale
been doing boosters for years

Be prepared to pay so big $'s for a Lockheed overhaul.

I tried to overhaul mine. Totally failed Sent the whole lot to the guy in Echuca. Now works like a charm.
A man's gotta know his limitations

_________________
1967 Cooper S - new front bearings to do.
1965 Cooper S shell - Slow progress. No time or money!
1966 Deluxe- next rustoration!
Mk 2 & XJ6 Jags. Less said the better.

Overhauled a VH44 in January, parts were around $150. Installed in car working fine. Have another VH44 to do, it's dismantled, just needs reassembly.

_________________
Clive G
1969 Mk II Cooper S
1970 MK II Cooper S
1963 Triumph Spitfire
1982 RX-7 Series 2

Yes...so consider buying a new replacement

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"

A major cost was sleeving the main bore. The air control bore was also sleeved larger to accept the VH44 piston as Lockheed parts for it are rare.
The main pushrod also rusts under the chrome.

A pretty productive day, took the rear windscreen out, made a new parcel shelf, changed rear pop out window seals, painted a door or 2...

And finished up for the night with a rear windscreen around 90% in... How does one finish it? Is it a case of getting a strong wire, pulling screen down while pushing inwards?

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

_________________
Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

I've always had the help of a friend to install screens, one person inside and one person outside. Once upon a time, used to use thin rope looped in the outer groove of the seal to hold the seal to the screen. Fit as much screen into its proper place from the outside, then from the inside pull the seal inwards using the rope. Last time I fitted screens, I used whipper sniper cord, seemed easier. Probably doesn't help if you have the screen partially in. Also have had a bad experience trying to pry the seal in using a metal tool, broke screen. Safety glass breaking makes a mess. Use black silicone sealant as necessary, much better than the old black stuff.

_________________
Clive G
1969 Mk II Cooper S
1970 MK II Cooper S
1963 Triumph Spitfire
1982 RX-7 Series 2

Windscreen in by myself! I'm going to cut someone if they ask why I'm still trying to get this locking strip in though....

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

_________________
Here am I sitting in my tin can far above the Moon
Planet Earth is blue and there's nothing I can do...



“A turbo: exhaust gasses go into the turbocharger and spin it, witchcraft happens and you go faster.” - Jeremy Clarkson

Well done, locking strip requires the tool, or make one out of coathanger wire. Use WD40 and lots of elbow grease.
Good luck.

_________________
Clive G
1969 Mk II Cooper S
1970 MK II Cooper S
1963 Triumph Spitfire
1982 RX-7 Series 2

Try the slightly modified bulldog clip, worked a treat for me.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=96127

I finally got back to putting my engine back together and noticed I am missing something! (I remember taking it out but I don't remember where I put it)

I feel like it's for oil, it had a spring and a bearing in it... but I can't seem to find what I need to order again!

Yep...Oil Pressure Relief Valve...a cylinder of metal and a spring. If you can't find it, buy or just look for another...

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"

Winner winner ! I don't know why I feel like there is another oil pressure relief valve (like behind the filter head?) but I assume there is only one. Off to the shops I go!

Cheers

Attached chrome side strips, nearly finished, waiting on new carpet set.

_________________
Clive G
1969 Mk II Cooper S
1970 MK II Cooper S
1963 Triumph Spitfire
1982 RX-7 Series 2