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PostPosted: Fri Dec 22, 2017 9:07 am 
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998cc
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Location: Adelaide
Hi All,
I have the opportunity to select an A Series engine or two from a crate of motors. All very old and untouched for at least 30 years.
What do I need to look for to tell if it’s an 850, 998, 1100 or 1275?
Merry Christmas
B


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 22, 2017 1:53 pm 
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850 has '850' cast into the block near the fuel pump hole.
Others have an alloy plate riveted onto block in the same place. Could be 1000, 1100, or 1275. Or missing...
1275 has the heater outlet flange screw holes at an angle on the head. All others except S they are square to the head.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 22, 2017 2:15 pm 
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If they still have the engine number stamped in the top that should give you a pretty good idea too. Generally speaking the first one or two digits will tell you the capacity, the exception is Cooper S engines which were stamped with a 9F

For Aussie cars:
8AM or 8Y = 850 (cylinder bore 62.9mm)
9FSAL = 997 Cooper (bore 62.4mm)
9YSAL, 9FSAH = 998 Cooper (bore 64.6mm)
9Y, 99H, 9A =998 (bore 64.6mm)
10Y, 10 = 1100 (bore 64.6mm)
12H, 12Y, 12 = 1275 (with no removable tappet covers - bore 70.6mm)
9FSAY or 9FXEY = 1275 Cooper S (removable tappet covers - bore 70.6mm)
Auto blocks have no dipstick hole at the front and the gearbox looks much different too

If they are UK import engines they have alloy plates riveted on top, in which case you can look them up on here:
http://guess-works.com/Tech/engine.htm

Some good info here too https://www.7ent.com/pages/engine-and-c ... ation.html

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 22, 2017 3:07 pm 
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1275cc
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Casting Numbers at the rear are a good indication not many people grind them off. I have a few photos of the casting numbers if you want I can upload them.
http://minispares.com/catalogues/classi ... px?1~1~234


Heaps of info here.
http://minispares.com/catalogues/classi ... nce.aspx?1
Attachment:
Engine and Head ID.jpg


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2017 10:20 am 
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998cc
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Location: Melbourne
RonR

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Last edited by miniron on Sat Dec 23, 2017 9:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2017 11:57 am 
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miniron wrote:
1275 engine blocks are 1/4" longer between the front and rear block faces and 1/4" taller than non 1275 blocks.

RonR

Sorry Ron you (and Vizard?) are wrong.
The block is the same length but the oil pump recess on a 1275 (except automatic) is 1/4" less.
Go measure one... :wink:

(Edit)
Both 998/1098 and 1275 blocks I measured at 13-5/8" long.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


Last edited by drmini in aust on Sun Dec 24, 2017 8:59 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2017 9:16 pm 
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998cc
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Hi Kevin,
I stand corrected on the length. I don't have any non 1275 blocks to measure.

RonR

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 24, 2017 11:36 am 
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And will they all fit in any mini engine bay?

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 24, 2017 11:42 am 
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They'll all fit, unless you get an auto engine as they have a slightly different subframe.

The 1275 block is 1/4" taller but will fit in any mini.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 24, 2017 12:33 pm 
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Definitely no auto!

... although I did see an auto shifter in the pile of bits!!

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 24, 2017 3:21 pm 
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Auto block is same external dimensions, but to use on a manual box, it needs oilway mods. And the 1275 auto block needs a 1/4" oil pump spacer fitted.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 25, 2017 7:01 am 
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I was only looking at my auto on the floor yesterday Kev and said to a mate i must do something about getting the tranny off it :wink: .


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 25, 2017 1:38 pm 
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goodie wrote:
I was only looking at my auto on the floor yesterday Kev and said to a mate i must do something about getting the tranny off it :wink: .

When pulling the converter off only undo 3 of the bolts to fit the puller. Otherwise the seal in the converter gets damaged.

You need to undo the nut on the bottom drop gear first or the convertor housing won't come off. To do this you need to hold the primary gear splines. I split an old clutch plate centre and welded a handle to it. Splines are not the same but if split it will fit over.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2017 10:33 am 
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Location: Yandina,Sunshine Coast,QLD
Also if you want to go deeper into it, if the engines are still attached to gearbox's have a look at them and try to find 4 syncro, remote box (even if it's on 998 it can still be worth it just for the box).
If you are going down this path the casting number on the front of the gear box will tell u what's inside. Hopefully the other boys can remember the numbers because I can't.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 01, 2018 1:09 pm 
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So, here’s the next question... which of these motors would be the best to modify for street use?


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