If youv'e been bashing on the end of the drive shaft it's probably just jammed the splines into the yoke a bit. I think at this point you'd be better removing the hub and shaft from the car and getting a good look at everything?

That's the plan, was originally trying to pull the whole hub/driveshaft before any bashing took place and it didn't let go, so presumably it is in a similar state to hub(bearings)/shaft being stuck together.

Only way to get the whole lot out of the car now will be to undo the 4 bolts which attach the coupler? to the output flange? (I am sure you know what I mean) and how that they separate easily enough!

Those four nuts are a bugger there's not much room to turn a spanner in there! remember to order new nuts don't be tempted to reuse the old ones. Nyloc nuts are one time use thing although lot's of people reuse them it's just better not too.

Biggest problem I will have is trying to get the driveshaft to stop spinning while un-doing the nuts!

Also another thought, will the driveshaft fit through the subframe opening with the coupler still stuck on it?

Yes it will

the driveshaft will slide out of the 'outer' yoke of the universal

there's a little rubber boot - just unclip the ties on the boot and you can slide the driveshaft out

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Got the lot out and in to the vice, third wack with the sledge hammer set it free.

Other than the obvious discoloured section, it all feels pretty good, the bearings spin freely without binding and the cv doesn't feel like it has any play or notchyiness.

I think I will tidy the whole lot up, and re-use it all, something may well fail after little use, but I think it is probably worth taking a chance on?

With your bearings, you may like to find a good magnifying glass and check over the bearing surfaces for pitting.

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Gees, after all the hassles of getting it out, I'd be putting in a new bearing and seal kit. Costs bugger all and you won't get caught out, why risk it.

I don't think it is 'bugger all', bearings are $80 as far as I have seen, a new CV is more than that. Pretty easy to spend over $200 on something that likely wont cause me any problems.

The car isn't a daily driver, so it isn't a problem for it to be off the road if I do need to order parts, I now have the knowledge required for if they do end up fusing again I should be able to go through the process again to remove it without to much problem.

As per flappers advice, I will give a more thorough inspection of the bearings themselves but if I don't see anything alarming I am happy to give it a try.

You'd be crazy to not just put new bearings in considering the age of the car and how long it was off the road. You already experienced the result of this with a very stuck drive shaft and was most likely caused by rust forming between the bearing/driveshaft surfaces which caused it to lock up.

You might find that if the used bearings have the slightest pitting or wear and you re- use them it can be hard to hear or notice if they start to wear out more and this can result in other components wearing out costing you more money and time to fix.

Its an important component and safety of any vehicle and for the age of them you'd be crazy to not just replace them.

I'd consider these parts 'consumables' and replace them.
I wouldn't risk the safety of myself or my family (or anyone) travelling in the vehicle.
What other parts are you planning on reinstalling? Disc rotors, ball joints, etc
I'd replace the lot for safety but that's just me.

I'm restoring a car dry stored since the 1950's and I don't know why it was parked (or how long) so I'm replacing all running gear and overhauling everything underneath as I don't know why it was being stored.

Just my 2c.

Nice project.

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Justin

I have replaced the discs, calipers (old ones were off the car the whole time and rusted), pads, flexible brake hoses, hub bearing dust covers, ball joint dust boots, tie rod dust boots, knuckle joint dust boots and split pins.

I have completely dis-assembled the ball joints and knuckle joint, cleaned each component and re-shimmed. No sense in replacing a ball joint/knuckle joint if it is in perfect working order, same with the tie rod end ball joint, they are within spec so no point in replacing.

On the completed side I pulled the bearings, cleaned, re-greased and installed in the hub after giving it a thorough clean up. Cleaned up the drive shaft and drive flange and re-installed the lot.

Obviously with the side that has given me trouble I will inspect it after doing a few kms to see how it fairs.

If ball joints OK after shimming I would prefer them to imported ones, some of which have been known to break.
As for the timkens they should be fine after repacking with fresh grease unless they look damaged. I just did this to an S which had been parked 35 years.
New timkens are a silly price particularly rears.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.