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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2017 8:35 am 
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That was all done before driving it

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2017 12:53 pm 
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9YaTaH wrote:
GundyGuy wrote:
Engine has so much more power
Only thing i found is it now runs hotter
I guess the extra power is creating a bit more heat
So its possible a bigger radiator might be needed
Question
Whats the best way to go
Brass/Copper or Aluminium
My radiator looks bog standard


Many reasons why...timing and mixture can change :idea:

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2017 3:04 pm 
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Would you like to explain more

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2017 6:14 pm 
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Did you get the radiator stripped and cleaned? My radiator is a stock Mini K/ Cooper S one, never overheats. With or without the Minimatic heater. Runs an 82C thermostat.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2017 5:24 am 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Did you get the radiator stripped and cleaned? My radiator is a stock Mini K/ Cooper S one, never overheats. With or without the Minimatic heater. Runs an 82C thermostat.


The car wasnt getting hot before the engine work
I did find 2 little chunks of rubbish in the cores and back flushed it all before i fitted it all back
I wonder if some rubbish has come out of the block/ head and into the radiator
I also have a new temp sender here so i might fit it and see if it changes things

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2017 7:23 am 
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Use an infrared thermometer to check temp of thermostat housing at running temp.
Backflush will not clear blocked cores, I'd take it to a rad shop for a tank off cleanout. Expensive but works.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2017 7:36 am 
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GundyGuy wrote:
The car wasnt getting hot before the engine work


So the timing or the mixture may not be right...both can cause overheating....distributors can be worn and wander around, and carbies can be worn or not set up properly (e.g. main jet not centred correctly)..

Just saying, OK?

Once you have fully overhauled the cooling system and you still have a problem then it might become clear (maybe)

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2017 8:06 am 
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First step is check your gauge. Put a kettle close enough to the car that you can put the sender in. Then boil the kettle and watch your gauge. If you have a thermometer in the kettle even better. You may as well test both senders while you are at it. (Remember to disconnect your coil).

As Doc mentioned an infrared thermometer is a handy tool too. You can get cheap ones on eBay.

The other think to consider is the old original voltage regulators can play up effect the standard gauge. This could be causing a false reading.

Mine is 1330 with a stock original radiator. I had the top and bottom tanks removed and the core cleaned out. Still gets quite hot on a hot day if stuck in traffic but has never boiled. Temp also rises a little climbing a long hill. Always returns to normal once moving.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2017 5:23 pm 
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well i tested the thermostat and it works fine
changed the temp sender and it still reads high
Checked air flow through the radiator and there is plenty
I checked the carbs mixture and it was a little rich if anything
I also looked at the PCV valve and felt it was letting too much air into the manifold
So it looks like a radiator clean
Was quoted $160 to do this
not much dearer for a whole new radiator
But i might do it myself as i am familiar with soldering in this fashion

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2017 9:06 pm 
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Not all new radiators are created equal.
The original Oz Mini one with 3 cores and 16 fins (gills)/inch is pretty good. UK super 2 core cools about the same. Some UK 3 cores- not so good.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 7:51 am 
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GundyGuy wrote:
changed the temp sender and it still reads high


What temp is "high"?

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 8:40 am 
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about 2/3 to 3/4 on the gauge
When it used to run just under 1/2
So something has changed
I wounder if after fitting the 266ss cam i might need to change the needle size to richen it up at high speed

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 11:29 am 
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"I wounder if after fitting the 266ss cam i might need to change the needle size to richen it up at high speed"

I wonder if you have wound it up too much. :)

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 12:00 pm 
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GundyGuy wrote:
about 2/3 to 3/4 on the gauge
When it used to run just under 1/2
So something has changed
I wounder if after fitting the 266ss cam i might need to change the needle size to richen it up at high speed


If it used to run "just under half" that means it used to run "below normal" which is not ideal.

It now is just above normal.

Whatever the reason for the change my preference would be for the temp to be above normal rather than below. It's not good for a motor and oil to be running too cool.

If you still haven't tested how the gauge reads you are still guessing. The difference may be less than 10deg?

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 12:13 pm 
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Anything over 70C is fine. I d be more worried if it's running too hot.
Try another thermostat....

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