Hi all

I got my project 1100S engine today with a 4 synchro remote box.

After previously being burnt from my last engine purchase, I wanna get this one down RIGHT.

Basically I am looking for a powerful road engine, one that has nice get up and go but one you can drive to the shops if you feel like it.

Soo what I'm after is recommendations on what I should get done to produce best results without going overboard.

As far as I'm aware it's currently 1310, 3.44 diff, port polished head and that's bout it. Needs full rebuild.

So, what do I need, people rec's on:

* cylinder bore size - was thinking maybe 1360?
* Stroke crank? I'm aware it gives 50 or so more cc? pro's and con's of doing this? power/durability
* what head work should I get done? port it out more? get bigger valves? what sizes?
* rockers? What sort of rockers should I use? Roller, forged? ratio?
* What pistons/comp ratio should I aim for?
* fuel system - I currently have twin 1.5 SU's, I've always like weber's but is it possible to fit one without firewall mods on an early deluxe?
* lighten/buy lightened flywheel??
* Clutch - I was thinking of using the verto clutch set up from my A+ engine, but what other options are suggested?

What other suggestions do people have?

MANY thanks in advance!

James

_________________
I wish I had some sort of witty quote in my signature

First question you need to ask yourself is how much money am I willing to spend? That will then determine what mods you will do. Some things are cheap enough like lightened flywheels. If you start looking at webers with short manifolds to avoid firewall mods you are likely looking at $500+ and it will then need a rebuild.

I will leave the technical stuff to the engine gurus but beware it can get out of control very quickly once you start chasing power out of an A series. The more power the more that will start to go wrong the more things you need to upgrade to handle the power.

_________________
1965 Riley Elf
1974 Ex Army Moke
1997 Rover Cooper
2002 JCW Cooper
2003 JCW Cooper S

I would only go up one overbore at a time. The HP you are chasing can easily be achieved with a 1330.
Select your camshaft first and then add headwork, carbs and rockers to suit the cam. It can be easier to copy a known combination that others are using.

My 2c...
Stroking.
Yes I've built a few, but these days IMO it's too expensive for what you get:
1. If it has the small journal crank and S rods you can't stroke it unless you get a big journal crank first. Add $$$.
2. It will cost you another $100 [or more] to get this crank stroked, on top of a normal crank regrind cost.
3. The counterweighting on a stroked crank is poor, so add another $300 or more to wedge it.
4. Then the crank needs balancing (but a stock crank should be checked too).
5. The S rods need narrowing by ~.030" to fit on the stroked crank. Balance them, & check straightness.
6. I would not rev it as hard as a stock stroke motor. 6500 max for reliability and life.

Bore size:
1360cc (73mm) is a good size and you still have 1 or 2 rebores left. But 1330cc (+.060") is fine too.
Pistons, I'd use GR's or Hypatecs (fit Hypatecs if stroking the crank).
C/R depends what cam you have. Longer duration cams allow higher C/R.

You can fit a Weber DCOE on a Redline manifold without cutting the firewall. But they need porting to flow well. Anything longer needs a Weber box fitted.
GR now does a nice steel manifold with a Weber 44IDF downdraft, it gives more HP and torque on a road motor.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If you're looking for a lighter (rotational mass) clutch setup then you'll need to go pre-verto.

I wouldn't go straight out to 1360 (73mm) over a 1330 (+.06"). You'll get an extra re-bore out of it down the track as long as nothing catastrophic happens and realistically it's not even an extra 8cc of swept volume per cylinder...

I'd have the head checked by someone who knows what they're doing if it has already been 'ported and polished' as you might find the ports are already plenty big enough for a fast road engine - you really don't want to get too carried away as you'll lose the drivability for the run to the shops.

And your cam is going to have the biggest influence on the result.

Oh, don't forget your gearbox either - it'll probably need lots of love too

Go the straight reco next o/s if necessary, but don't drill it to the Max straight off. Head sounds good, get it reco'ed And checked. Just a nice road cam, nothing too lumpy. In regards to Weber, do some checking if its 2nd hand, as mentioned it'll need a kit at least. By the time you buy it, put the kit and anything else it needs, you've nearly bought a new one.
Don't build an angry ant motor, you'll just end up hating it.

Thanks everyone for your responses so far.

I'm not really chasing mountains of power - I'd spend money on what will make a difference, and spend the money on upgrades to compensate for the difference.

I think the hardest thing to decide so far is the cam. There are so many types and brands and they all seem to have their pros and cons. As mentioned once I can choose that then I can match my headwork/rockers ect to that.


In terms of my G/box I'm gonna get it fully reco's too. It's a K/Mk2S remote box. I want to run a pot joint diff probably with just a 3.44 FD. Is there any upgrades as such I should at for the box? Or just make sure it's fully rebuilt?

Thanks
James

_________________
I wish I had some sort of witty quote in my signature

Mk2S/ Mini K box is fine. Use a 3.44 diff,and S gears if ya got em. Replace worn parts and all bearings.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Awesome thanks! Not sure what gearset I have yet, sure I'll find out soon enough. One question in terms of mountings... I currently run a rodchange box on a dry subframe from a (approx) 73 clubbie.

If I then want to put a remote box in that subframe, do the engine mount holes line up? Or will I need new holes drilled in the subframes?

_________________
I wish I had some sort of witty quote in my signature

Holes are all the same. Only Oz cars that were different were the MiniMatics. Motor was ~20mm further forward, with different mounts.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

A central oil pickup and stronger diff would be good too in the gearbox. I think I have a couple of spare 3.44 diffs if you need one.

How is your car running now with the current engine? Have you got a plan for it in the future?

GR has been doing some downdraft Webers which sound to be working well. They are said to fit under the standard bonnet too
http://russellengineering.com.au/manifold-difference/

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=52415&p=961116&hilit=downdraft#p961116

_________________

Yeah was definitely going to go a central oil pickup. Not sure what to do with the diff, how far before it is overkill - it won't be boosted or anything.

The engine is running decently. She's blowing a little bit of blue smoke - the head got completely reco'd so I'm guessing my rings got a little damaged when it overheated. The gearbox is rubbish though - starting crunching 2nd gear AGAIN and it's popped out of 2nd and 3rd going down hills.

Plans - I'll get rid of it I'd say, it's runner and probably won't take much work for it to be a good unit, but I've just spent too much money on it. Someone will get a good bargain I'd say.

A downdraft weber would be so cool. I've always loved the webers. I'll put it on my wish list

_________________
I wish I had some sort of witty quote in my signature

The Webers sounded like a good price too
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=87949&start=15

_________________

Nice!! Definitely affordable

_________________
I wish I had some sort of witty quote in my signature

Make sure you use good quality parts for the gearbox. I have found it better to use local parts guys as they stand behind the products they sell. Karcraft, Mini Kingdom Online are a good place to start. I got caught out in the early 90's with a layshaft from the UK. Wasn't hardened properly and did a lot of damage.