On the blowby it's a function of lots of factors. Honing done properly will have the first stoning produce the oil retension valleys and the angle is relevant to the rpm target, a steeper angle will retain less oil and give less friction but less sealing. The second honing is simply the ring bed-in scratches to the peaks of the first scratches and will flatten to a polish after limited mileage. Using one stone to do both "over" wears the rings and can micro chip them or it doesn't hold the oil for sealing and cooling. Unfortunately the rattle-can engineers around will single "hone" the cylinder, spray the block a nice colour and make you pay for a premium job, then make you pay through shortened engine life so you come back for more over paid rattle-can engineering.
If your bores are glazed, then you need a better warm up procedure, the scratches are full of junk and will give lots of blowby. A rehone is needed
If the bores are polished, you've run out of hone and need a rehone
If patches of polished zones appear this is where blow-by will mostly be occurring, the block wasnt warmed and stressed prior to honing, you need a rehone (this is very common in well kept but not prep'd race motors, road engines wear around the top ring land on the bore first)
If you dont mind the blowby no hone needed
, to get a couple more Horses out of the engine, dr vizard book states that even three degree out will sap HP.