Hi guys

I have been messing around with this car for years and got the stage either crack the shits and pull the whole engine out and replace it or try moving the carb.

I have had a vmax supercharger kit installed for a while with a megasquirt ecu but it has always run rubbish, I believe due to the design of the carby being way the hell down in front of the engine as seen below. Dont get me wrong it ran ok but I always felt it lacked the power it should have but the biggest problem was it would hunt on idle and if the revs were not kept above 2000 it would stall on take off.

Some say it is condensation running back down into the carb and it seems Michaelb has overcome this with his heater pipe wrapped around the inlet manifold. The air cleaner does have an element to heat it but doesn't seem to make any difference.



I have now moved my carby to right in front of the supercharger as seen below, had to swap the clutch mc to a tin type to move it back out of the way.



All I can say is wow, what a transformation. The car comes on boost instantly and kicks you back in the seat, feels amazing to drive and performs like I always thought it should. Problem being of course the carby doesn't fit under the bonnet. I plan on fitting another bonnet and cut a hole through it with bonnet scoop but don't think I will last long before being pulled over.

I already have all injection system fitted, problem is I cant find anyone to mod the megasquirt to run the injection, which I will inject direct into the mouth of the charger. Are there any other ECU's that will run injection on a mini? Are specialist component ecu's only to suit their set ups?

Any help or suggestions appreciated

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1965 Riley Elf
1974 Ex Army Moke
1997 Rover Cooper
2002 JCW Cooper
2003 JCW Cooper S

How about a side draught Weber using one choke?

Yes that was the other option using a weber but I was hoping to use what I already have installed. If I cant I will end up going weber for sure.

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1965 Riley Elf
1974 Ex Army Moke
1997 Rover Cooper
2002 JCW Cooper
2003 JCW Cooper S

That's if they can catch you ha ha.....

So long as it's legit (which it looks like it is with the mod plate hiding away there) just tell em where to go .

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

Mod plate is only for the roll cage and change of seats from what I can tell. Dont even know if Qld mod plates are worth the tin they are stamped on in WA. For now I guess I will just run with a bonnet scoop and see how long I last

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1965 Riley Elf
1974 Ex Army Moke
1997 Rover Cooper
2002 JCW Cooper
2003 JCW Cooper S

How high does the bonnet scoop need to be?

Could you just put a bulge in the bonnet? same on each side? they might not even notice! Or think it some body kit and a non issue...

I believe in victoria, scoops are only regulated becuase if you hit somone, they can get caught up on it... but if its just a bulge... it doesn't really even get considdered.

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1975 Hairy Lime/White Clubby
Build Thread: http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=80657

Carb sticks out of the bonnet by 11cm, from the research I have done I could easily put a scoop on as long as it points back towards the car and I can see 11m in front to the ground. Just wondering if Mr Plod would be wondering why I would have such a scoop on the car and pull me over to investigate.

At the end of the day it wouldnt matter too much, I would just bolt the standard carbs back on and get the defect notice removed from my mates workshop.

Ideally I am after an ECU which will handle my injection set up as everything is there just waiting to be used. Tank is in, return lines etc. So my preference is injection, if I cant get that sorted SU and then if defected weber with bulge in the bonnet.

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1965 Riley Elf
1974 Ex Army Moke
1997 Rover Cooper
2002 JCW Cooper
2003 JCW Cooper S

I may be wrong but I thought rear facing scoops can't be on the drivers side of the car as oil, flames etc could block your vision. Forward facing scoop can't obstruct forward vision as you state 11 meters in front to ground.

Have you seen my Megasquirt setup using an adapter that turns the SU into a throttle body?
http://forums.minidriver.com.au/index.php?/topic/1026-68-morris-mini-deluxe-efi-conversion/

I'm not sure what you mean by modding the Megasquirt to run injection. Do you mean the internal mods required for the injection driver(s)? Are you just using the Megasquirt for ignition only at the moment?

I built my Megasquirt from scratch, but I have over 40 years of electronics experience behind me, so I may be able to help you if its hardware advice you need or point you in the right direction.

My Mini has now done over 10,000 kms on EFI.

Jim

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'68 Morris Mini 1310 A+ (Now Sold!)

Hi Jim

You are spot on with your comments, yes I mean the internal mods required to do it as it only runs the ignition at the moment. I have the adaptor for the su, the patten something it was called but i doubt a single injector would run the engine properly?

I will pm you

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1965 Riley Elf
1974 Ex Army Moke
1997 Rover Cooper
2002 JCW Cooper
2003 JCW Cooper S

Would you consider keeping the discussion ( or parts of it) public so it can be used as a resource for other people who are in your situation, or for those who wish to learn more?

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"Beware the lollipop of mediocrity: lick it once and you'll suck forever" Brian Wilson

It is all public mate, I have only pm'ed Jim regarding sending my ecu to him for modification. I dont think he would want to post his address on a public forum.

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1965 Riley Elf
1974 Ex Army Moke
1997 Rover Cooper
2002 JCW Cooper
2003 JCW Cooper S

I have no problems Jason if you want to put my original reply that I pm to you here.
Ive just got up so ill pm you my address privately.
Maybe my reply from last night might help others.
Jim

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'68 Morris Mini 1310 A+ (Now Sold!)

as OK'ed by Jim here is his response to me last night for the benefit of any who may be looking at doing a similar thing.


With the Paton adaptor (what I have), it will only support the GM TBI low pressure (~12PSI) injectors. Now I'm not sure what the expected HP is of your engine, but I guess its north of 100BHP. If so the injector Patton supplies will only do up to 100 or so BHP. It can cope with more if you bump up the fuel pressure, I've had it up to 16PSI, which will do ~116BHP. Big problem is injector sizing that can do the very small pulse widths for idle and also cope with flat out and not excedding ~85% duty cycle. This is to minimise overheating.

One thing to look out for is also the location of your MAP sensor take off. Don't use the SU's vacuum take of, even if its on the manifold side of the butterfly. It is a very compromised vacuum source as I found out. Since you are looking at a Speed Density system, the MAP signal is very important to the success of the smoothness and drivability of the car. I know this as I found out the hard way.

It looks like you have good fabrication skills (something that I don't) so put the MAP takeoff at least an inch away from the butterfly if you can.

Is your fuel pump a Rover one mounted in the tank, if so, is it a SPI or MPI one. The SPI is only around 14.7PSI and the MPI is I think ~45PSI. Obviously the GM injector is rated at 12PSI.

My Megasquirt has been upgraded to a MS3 and and support staged injection i.e. at low boost only one injector is used then at predefined settings, the second injector comes in to play, and lets you use that power from the supercharger. Yeah! I'm not sure if the MS2 supports this feature. I'll check into it. Also if yours is a MS1 then I strongly suggest it's upgraded to a 2 or even 3. Reason being is that the 2 and 3 have faster micro controllers that allow finer resolution of the 'squirts' and this is important for better idle etc.

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1965 Riley Elf
1974 Ex Army Moke
1997 Rover Cooper
2002 JCW Cooper
2003 JCW Cooper S