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 Post subject: Timing........
PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2005 1:32 pm 
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Fellow members, is there a rule of thumb as to what setting the timing should be at on Slidey's 1310??????? or any model for that matter?. I may be incorrect but i thought at one stage i was told that anywhere between 10-15 degrees advanced :? .

Reason for the Q is that i was told that Slidey's timing was 2 degree's retarded........... opinions anyone?

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 Post subject: Re: Timing........
PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2005 2:04 pm 
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sg wrote:
Fellow members, is there a rule of thumb as to what setting the timing should be at on Slidey's 1310??????? or any model for that matter?. I may be incorrect but i thought at one stage i was told that anywhere between 10-15 degrees advanced :? .

Reason for the Q is that i was told that Slidey's timing was 2 degree's retarded........... opinions anyone?


all depends on the type of cam fitted....if standard, do it by the book...if the profile has changed then zero it in via the instructions provided by the cam manufacturer....

now, standard or pulsar dissy..... :arrow: :arrow: :arrow:

search on timing or camshaft for extra discussion

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2005 2:24 pm 
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Standard dizzy 9Y........... will do search now...

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PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2005 3:52 pm 
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I don't bother with static timing figures any more. Fuels have changed, cams are not stock, many heads have different chamber shapes, and most dizzys have 30 years of wear.
I advance them until they either ping, or feel a little rough- then retard until they are running sweet. Could be anything from 30-35* total advance. If it kicks back during starting, I retard a little more. :wink:
When you get it right, put a mark on the crank pulley and another on the timing cover (or a bit of sheet metal).
These marks set to line up using strobe timing light, with motor running at 4500rpm (ie full advance on all except an S dizzy) :wink:

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 Post subject: Too true..
PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2005 5:42 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
I don't bother with static timing figures any more. Fuels have changed, cams are not stock, many heads have different chamber shapes, and most dizzys have 30 years of wear.
I advance them until they either ping, or feel a little rough- then retard until they are running sweet. Could be anything from 30-35* total advance. If it kicks back during starting, I retard a little more. :wink:
When you get it right, put a mark on the crank pulley and another on the timing cover (or a bit of sheet metal).
These marks set to line up using strobe timing light, with motor running at 4500rpm (ie full advance on all except an S dizzy) :wink:


Doc...I have heard and seen this work quite a few times now....just turn the dissy till the revs die, back a tad, check it aint pinging...make a mark. Set and forget....unbelievable :wink: .

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2005 5:47 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
I don't bother with static timing figures any more. Fuels have changed, cams are not stock, many heads have different chamber shapes, and most dizzys have 30 years of wear.
I advance them until they either ping, or feel a little rough- then retard until they are running sweet. Could be anything from 30-35* total advance. If it kicks back during starting, I retard a little more. :wink:
When you get it right, put a mark on the crank pulley and another on the timing cover (or a bit of sheet metal).
These marks set to line up using strobe timing light, with motor running at 4500rpm (ie full advance on all except an S dizzy) :wink:


Very interesting Doc.... will try that one...

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 Post subject: Re: Too true..
PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2005 6:40 pm 
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9YaTaH wrote:
drmini in aust wrote:
I don't bother with static timing figures any more. Fuels have changed, cams are not stock, many heads have different chamber shapes, and most dizzys have 30 years of wear.
I advance them until they either ping, or feel a little rough- then retard until they are running sweet. Could be anything from 30-35* total advance. If it kicks back during starting, I retard a little more. :wink:
When you get it right, put a mark on the crank pulley and another on the timing cover (or a bit of sheet metal).
These marks set to line up using strobe timing light, with motor running at 4500rpm (ie full advance on all except an S dizzy) :wink:


Doc...I have heard and seen this work quite a few times now....just turn the dissy till the revs die, back a tad, check it aint pinging...make a mark. Set and forget....unbelievable :wink: .

It's called `power timing'. Very easy to do with V8s in inboard boats, you can reach back, & turn the dizzy while you're driving.. :wink:

Getting back to Minis..
Whatever dizzy advance you have, you need to run the motor fast enough for this so it's finished the centrifugal advance. Alfas 4 cyls use 5,200 rpm.. :shock: 8)
Cooper S used to advance all the way to 7,000. :? But I bet now with the fuels we use, they would give more power with a convention dizzy curve that stops around 4000.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2005 6:45 pm 
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Its an Art...And I Think I'm getting thier...But as you have said it fine tunning specialy with the fuel we use now adays...I know when Morris has the crap fuel in it now...he liks to ping...but when it the good stuff He's spot on :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2005 7:16 pm 
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
So if the cooper dizzys advance all the way up to 7000 rpm, what is the best way people use to set them?
I've been using the book so far, but I am interested to see if I can squeeze a little more from the girl..

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2005 7:26 pm 
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Mick wrote:
So if the cooper dizzys advance all the way up to 7000 rpm, what is the best way people use to set them?
I've been using the book so far, but I am interested to see if I can squeeze a little more from the girl..

Most owners I know (of stock ones) still set them static. But as I said, the stock advance curve in them is now probably not the best for the fuel in use.
I'd advance it as I said above, then see what that comes back to with a strobe light at idle. Don't be surprised if it's a long way from the factory spec.... :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2005 7:28 pm 
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AS per Dr realy...It the way I have been showen

If she kink back after re build...Advance it Clock wise...If she Pings retrat it...Just make sure you have the best fuel you have
I have no idea at this atge how to use a timming light :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2005 7:44 pm 
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Guys....... great thread, great replies.... keep it coming i'm learning a lot out of this :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2005 8:32 pm 
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Any lucas dissy that has not been rebuilt 5 minutes ago will have a questionable timing curve unless it has some mods done to it. Even new the base plates were all over the place and point bounce could also be a problem. The machines to set up the curve are I guess pretty hard to find these days so it is hard to find out exactly how a lucas dissy is performing. Get a Pulsar. I haven't looked but I wonder if it would be possible to fit the pulsar guts in a lucas housing????.says he thinking..

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2005 10:04 pm 
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once i have my 45 dcoe and i find a pulsar dizzy to convert i will be getting a full dyno tune (at a discount price) to get mine perfect.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2005 10:25 pm 
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2 out of 3 of our Minis have Pulsars in 'em now. 1360 A series & now the 1293 A+. When I trip over another dizzy I'll grab it for the 1132 Clubbie. 8)
Lucas these days are good only for donor drive dogs.. :P

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