I was making enquiries today about boring my motor and the guy I was speaking to suggested i stroke it instead. I wanted to bore it from its present 1330 to 1360 but he suggested I leave it at +060 and stroke it to get the capacity thus leaving room to bore it in the future. It sounds like the price to do both would be similar. Anyone done this? How much does the stroking increase capaciy? BTW this guy knows heaps about Minis and has an immaculate black van.

_________________
Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

the extra cost of the crank and rods,you could boar to 1360,and buy another block and bore it out again....
would b good but EXPENCIVE

_________________
BRICKWORX RACING
872-874 South Rd
Edwardstown
SA 5039
PH: 8297 9494
FAX: 8297 7133

Not by the quote I was given today. It would be only marginally more expensive.

_________________
Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

im told the other thing wrong with em is that they rev slower due to the bore/stroke ratio

_________________
BRICKWORX RACING
872-874 South Rd
Edwardstown
SA 5039
PH: 8297 9494
FAX: 8297 7133

But with the extra Torque, you can gear them higher so you dont NEED To rev them as hard .....



J

_________________

Thats the whole point of course. I want to run a 3.1 diff. Anyone got one or do I have to buy it OS?

_________________
Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

Stroking by using a large journal crank offset ground to 1.625" does weaken them a bit. They are only EN16 material....

I considered doing my new one that way to get from 1360 to 1405 (I have a suitable crank already) but Graham Russell suggested as I have a good S crank & rods, as I want to rev it, use them.
So a high windin' 1360 it is.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

After being involved in karting and 2 strokes I have gone right off revving motors hard. The piston speeds get to high and the wear rate goes through the roof. This is going to be driven every day so it has to last. Even if I do not stroke it I will put a low limit on the redline. I have a standard car which I drive everyday and it goes to 8000 rpm no worries so revs really have no fascination for me at all. The only good thing about revving a motor that I can see is it gives more flexibility in gearing and as this is not a racing car that is not an issue.

_________________
Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

I've seen my share of busted cranks- mostly EN16 ones and that included a small crankpin 1100S one that went bang! 20,000 miles after a regrind.

S crank (EN40B material) is stronger and I've got 2 good ones, so I'll use it.
It ain't broke so I won't fix it.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Do you get your cranks crack tested Doc? A big problem is the regrind doesen't get a good radius on the journal or some dope drops it or hits it with something. People just do not understand the tender care cranks require.

_________________
Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

Yep that 1100S one was crack tested. You might be right about the radius though- it's real important and some crank grinders just don't care!

I used to magnaflux cranks (eons ago when I worked at the railways)- these days I `ring' test them (Graham Russell does this too) then dyechek them if any doubt.
If you stand a crank on end and tap one of the top webs lightly with a spanner, it will ring like a bell. IF it's not cracked...
repeat for other end.
If it sounds dull and flat, it's a dud.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

There`s absolutely no problem doin a stroker donk for revs,,, they are strong as & can handle 8000rpms all day every day (when built correctly)

we`ve been doin stroker donks since the first ever large journal crank hit Australia (That`s a long time)

not one of "OUR" cranks has given any trouble in all that time (& we`ve probly built more stroker mini donks than just about anyone in Aust), we road them, we rally them & we full race them, fark, my own race 1415cc donk qite regularly hit 9000rpms & there`s still nothing wrong with that crank to this day!!!!!!!!

They truely are a wonderfull, magnificent road donk & i still don`t recoment talling up the gearing, we still fit 3.7 or 3.6 ratios to our roadies, for a number of reasons,,,one of which is simple putting along the suburban streets with a 3.4 & you`re speeding,,, fit a 3.7 or 3.6 & youre just on the speed limit & happilly just putting along minding your own business,,,,if you want to get up & go, well, just push the pedal, no need for down shift at all,,,there are plenty of other reasons as well,,,EG: the word """accelleration""" & there`s even more reasons concerning the vibration factors at certain revs, i won`t go on & on about all that cause i could be here typing about it all day

if people would bother to do their homework on the gearing of these little wonders of the motoring industry, then they`d realize by going tall,(EG:3.4,,,3.2,,,3.1,,,2.9 etc) they`re killing their torque & accelleration & are "DEFINATELY" not gaining any top speed by doing so.

with a well built 1415cc stroker (our own designed 73mm pistons & 1/8" stroker crank) will happilly run for literally years & years & years,,,we have customers that we`ve done strokers over 20 years ago & they`re still fangin around today.

Yes, long term exccessive revs can wear them out, but that`s the same with any car,,,"Exccessive" revs will wear any engine out quite quick,,,but 7500rpms in a road donk is not exccessive in my books as my 1510cc stroker has done so for over 8 years now...you only have to look at all the late jap cars , happy to hit 8000rpms for years & years, they`re no different.

proof is in the pudding boys & girls, you just need to know how to build em right

we did one roady for a mate of mine back in the 70s & it regularly hit 8000rpms,,,addmittedly the road cam didn`t allow much power after 7000 but he continually hit 8000rpms & it`s still alive today & i actually took the 0-1600cc tourng car lap record at Echo valley hillclimb with it,,, pump fuel,,, 25/65 cam ,,,& all roady stuff with single carb & yep,,,8000rpms all day.

now someone else try to tell me that stroker mini donks don`t rev & see what happens!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! go on ,,,i dare you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

crickey!!!...now my fingers hurt

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

I agree with you about the tall diff ratios Matt- I'm pulling the 3.4 out and fitting a 3.6 to the 1360 this time!

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Matt, I am building a motor which will rarely see a suburban speed limit and will spend most of its life at 110-120. I live in the bush so to speak and never go into the metro area. If I do I can use another car. Can you give me the RPM per 10kph in top with a 3.44 on 10's using a mini k box? This car is going to be doing 20,000km a year and I want it to last. I am not into pulling motors out of cars if I don't have to. Any advice gratefully accepted.

_________________
Chris

Everything I like is either
illegal, immoral or fattening.

Chris,
Stock Oz Mini box (any) with 3.44 diff with 165/70-10 tyres = ~16.1 MPH/1000 = 25.91 KMH/1000....

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.