G'day Guys,
I've got a slight problem with the Mini which I'm looking for advice on. The clutch end engine stabiliser bar is broken - both the top and bottom bracket on the bulkhead have snapped. This leaves me with online the radiator side steady bar, making the car not very driveable.

Replacing the top bracket is relatively easy, just have to take the master cylinders out, but the bottom bracket is the problem. It has snapped along the right-angled bend. I'm guessing it's loads of fun to replace requiring engine removal and an experienced welder.

Are there any other solutions available? Could I for example add two lower engine steadies aswell as the radiator one, and not have a clutch end stabiliser bar? I've seen the wonderful adjustable steady bars available, are there any available that work as a replacement for my broken one? I've seen kits for the engine side of the bracket for those of us with broken studs, but no kit for those of us with broken brackets on the firewall!

Anyone have any solutions, temporary or not, that wont require engine removal at this point in time? The timing is not right for an engine removal. If it had happened two weeks ago, I'd have been fine!

Anto.

I remember welding mine (firewall bracket that is). Can't remember whether the engine was in or out.

Whoever had the car before me was very fond of brazing things. Braze and bog actually. So I had to clean the braze off both parts, but giving it a hit with the mig was pretty straightforward. The Mig weld seems to be holding up much better than the braze for some reason

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"Life is not like a box of chocolates... it's more like a jar of jalapenos. Whatever you do today, may burn your arse tomorrow."

If that bracket is broken off as you say then would this work???

Drill a couple holes thought where the bracket is still welded to the firewall and get a piece of angle to bolt on as a replcaement.

It would not need removal of engine to do, this location already has some re-inforcing of the firewall from the old bracket, but I would put a bit of flat in there as well on the inside.

A propper replacement could be welded in at a later date when the engine is comes out for anonther reason. but it should be strong enough to last for years I'd think.

Like this

I'm no engineer so I defer to the experts if this presents ant safety or other issues.
Cheers Dat

ps The pic is an optical illusion - go Photoshop LOL

I had thought of drilling holes and bolting the bracket in - I was a bit worried it might pull through though. Using a big washer on the top bracket didn't help, possibly made it worse. The top bracket snapped right along the edge of the washer.

How much room is there to play with on the other side (ie where the pedal box is). I am assuming I have access from the inside of the car, judging by your picture (I haven't had a chance to look myself yet).

I'm thinking your idea might just work, at least for the time-being. I was going to remove the engine again at some stage, but I'd prefer to put a 1275 back in

Anto.

I had a problem where the steady bar had pounded the firewall enough to crack it. We welded the crack up, then a 3mm plate over the top, then welded a bit of angle to that, using a washer welded to that to make a nice round surface for the bottom bush to sit against. all that was done with the engine in the car. also welded a washer inside the top of the top bracket to reinforce that. i don't think i'll have that problem again. ever

all done with a stick welder too, so if you cant get the MIG nozzle in there, that is an option.

michael

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the world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page
66 Mini Minor sponsored by http://www.lifeonthehedge.com.au/ The Dog Harness Specialists
It was a pleasure ausmini. I'll miss all you misfits and reprobates

Try this link from Minimani in the states. Probably more useful for ones that haven't broken yet but worth a look anyway
http://dealer.minimania.com/web/Item/MSSK1500/AddedFrom/CatBrowse%2D%20ENGINE%5FSTABLIZ/InvDetail.cfm

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1965 Morris Mini 'Woody' Traveller

There is tons of room

If you remove the pedal box and master cylinders you'll have all the room you need to get in there and do the job. [on the inside, there is a cavity on the firewall for the mastercylinder push rods to enter the cabin. This is all within the confines of the pedal box, so removing it would save lots of swearing and skun knuckles]

As long as the bolts you use for this mod don't stick too far rearwards into the cabin you'll be fine - the first thing they could come in contact with will be the master cylinder push rods which line up central to the large horizontal hole in the pic so you got a significant amount of clearance to have a backing plate and head of a nut on the inside of the firewall.

Cheers Dat

my most hated job on a mini,getting master cylinders out of minis,HATE IT

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BRICKWORX RACING
872-874 South Rd
Edwardstown
SA 5039
PH: 8297 9494
FAX: 8297 7133

don't forget about puttind them in
ur that all that good at that etheir

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Nigel Morton/ Team Brickworx
never late in a 998

dont trust bigel with rear subframes,when PUSHING cars they callaps and almost take your arm off from the top of the door

_________________
BRICKWORX RACING
872-874 South Rd
Edwardstown
SA 5039
PH: 8297 9494
FAX: 8297 7133

but i am really quick when it comes to droppin engines in

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Nigel Morton/ Team Brickworx
never late in a 998

get her over the car,give engine lifter a 1/2 turn and she home and hoasted..WOW that could have taken stevs arm off funny stuff thou

_________________
BRICKWORX RACING
872-874 South Rd
Edwardstown
SA 5039
PH: 8297 9494
FAX: 8297 7133

That kit looks like the gear I need. However, it is not available locally and I think ordering it from O/S would take too long. At this point in time I think I will get another lower bracket off a parts car, and put a couple of bolts through to hold in on with some big flat washers to spread the load. Will probably be better than the original spot welds

I will also look in to adding some lower engine stabiliser bars. They are a bit costly but I may have to bite the bullet if I want to avoid this problem in the future.

Anto.

hey anto is it remote or rod change ??
makka

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Anonymous moderation means the agro that is built up towards the mods isn't aimed at an individual (fewer "Makk" attacks). Less stress for mods means less moderator "retirements".

rod change. Which makes bottom engine steadies even more important!