when ive payed for my exhaust and the wiring i want to start on modifying the engine. my question is do i start off with the transmission so it can cope with power or get the power first?. What i really want to start off with is to be able to take off as fast and hard and i want without having to worry about stress to the driveshafts etc. any suggestions would be a big help for the future.

thanks alot

I think you'll be fine.

I think alotta hot Mini's have standard boxes, to a certain extent.

edit/ you're more than likely to break traction before you break a drive shaft!

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really....break traction......

If i were you,i would do what i did
Get yourself a remote change gear box (12G1128's are the best ones to use)and pull it apart,
then you go theu and replace what ever looks to rude to put back into it,while its apart you should ALWAYS fit a central oil pick up if it already hasnt got one(about $130),give eavrything a HUGE clean.the cleaner it is,the better its gunna be,then get yourself a 3:44 diff,these give the best in bottom and top end speed,they can be found in most rod change gearboxes and cooper S boxes.i put new syncro's in first and 4th,and NOS syncro's in 2nd and 3rd,as apparently the old ones were made better,and 2nd and 3rd get most of the power changes .conver to CV joints as uni joints always brake when ya just getting excited (having a bit of fun),make sure you clean all your surfaces and have them flat,to stop oil leaks for years and years to come ,replace all your bearings and rebuild the diff and she should be good to go.
Watch out for them drive shaft's thou.one snapped on my bosses 110+ BHP Cross flow race car and it flipped 180* in the air,came down on the nose then slammed down on its wheels.he broke both hands,and fractured his back in 2 spots.
my complete gearbox/diff rebuild cost me under $500 with all new bits..but then again i work for a mini place
have fun with it and PM me for more info or help..

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BRICKWORX RACING
872-874 South Rd
Edwardstown
SA 5039
PH: 8297 9494
FAX: 8297 7133

The most common thing to go is 2nd gear synchro, and any of the other's...

Get it rebuilt and it will be fine, RED 850 is putting out 150HP+ in a stock mini K box...

That being said though, it still isn't a modern box and i don't think i'd be going around taking off fast and hard ALOT...all good things in moderation

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Weakest part in any old Mini box (and usually overlooked) is the diff pin and planet gears.
Replace 'em with a competition pin & new gears.. or go get a 4 pinion diff if you got lotsa $$$.

4 synchro boxes (both sorts) are a lot stronger in 1st & 2nd gear than the old 3 synchro ones were..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

mine a new hardend one,
old one was pritty damn sad...

_________________
BRICKWORX RACING
872-874 South Rd
Edwardstown
SA 5039
PH: 8297 9494
FAX: 8297 7133

thanks heaps for that guys. The motor has only just rebuilt and the guy that built it said hed check all parts in the gearbox and it seemed ok (the motor is a 1275/1310). ...so what i need to do is...
central oil pickup
hardened diff pin
and a 3:44 diff
btw how do i find out what ratio the diff is? and what kind of prices would i be looking at for all this stuff and maybe a 4 pin diff?

To find the diff ratio, you can either look at your speedo which should match up to the ratio, or look at how many revs you are doing in 4th @ 100km/h

Central Oil Pickup is about $110
Competition Diff Pin is about $65

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Count the teeth on the pinion & the crown wheel.
17/64 = 3.765:1
17/62 = 3.647:1
18/62 = 3.444:1
These are the most common ones in Oz.

LH side of crown wheel (between the bolts) is marked with ratio as above, 18/62 etc.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

if you want the mot efficient box, go straight cut... they transfer more power to the wheels then a helical cut gearset.... But mind you, you'll be paying for it both in money and the amount of whinning they do.....

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68matic: "i havent seen much head in my life "

straitcut isnt the best on the street,its to loud,i LOVE the noise of em but arfter trying to drive to work you dont wanna sound like a HUGE bee getting down the road,
stick with a propper built remote box with the fue up-grades mentiond and ou should be rite,unless you drive like big willie

_________________
BRICKWORX RACING
872-874 South Rd
Edwardstown
SA 5039
PH: 8297 9494
FAX: 8297 7133

thanks heaps guys ill get saving then.

what gearbox do you have under it now?id just wait untill something goes bang then rebuild it,or buy another box and just go thru it bit by bit and leav it one the shelf for that day when the old ones goes BANG....crunch crunch crunch

_________________
BRICKWORX RACING
872-874 South Rd
Edwardstown
SA 5039
PH: 8297 9494
FAX: 8297 7133

at the moment ive got a standard 1275 gearbox with nothing done to it.