Is it worth doing? I saw a couple of trade stands at the Bendigo Swap meet yesterday and was wondering if it is as good as they say. It looks good, is supposed to reduce radiated heat and prolong life by preventing rust. Does it work as they say? Ive got a manifold being ported at GR Engineering and am buying a new set of extractors so was wondering if I should get it done. Its under $300- to get it all done.

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club

I think that ceramic coating is aimed more at turbo motors because of the huge amount of heat they dump into the engine bay, some people say that if you get the inside and outside of the pipes done in the good quality stuff then it can stay cool enough to touch the outside of the extractors after a hot run.

I guess that any way to reduce heat is a good thing even in a NA motor.

The cheaper option would be to get some exhaust wrap at like $30 for a 10m roll.

Hope this is helpful...

Dont run exhaust wrap, itll rust the BEEP out of them.
Ceramic coating works, needs to be done inside and out... best is the silver.

Several places do it.

My exhaust manifold and dump pipe for the turbo conversion is around $250 to be ceramic coated inside and out.

Not sure if you need on an NA motor unless its a racer.

Cheers, Pete.

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

Does not Peter
We had it on for a good 3 years and the Lukies were second hand
took them off just to have a check and they are they look perfect.
But in saying this...Bling is Nice

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Dont do it i tell ya!!!!!

Were the lukey's treated before wrapping?? Even factory treated if you didnt ??

Put them on ordinary exhaust manifolds and see what happens.
They hold in moisture (against the pipes) and that causes rust. In our climates the condensation and moisture stays in there... There is a silicone spray (or something like that) that is used to put on the manifold, etc before wrapping, dont know anyone who has used that... but everyone (except you) that I know that had exhaust wrap took it off and basically peeled their manifold apart... rusty, rusty.


Pete.

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

Ceramic coating is probably not worth it unless you are racing and trying to extract every last hp from the engine. Otherwise it's $250 for negligeable hp gain. Yes it will protect extractors but since they cost about $200, why more than double the price when you can buy a new set if they go rusty etc?

Turbo maybe different story...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I bought a set of s/h Link 3-1 race pipes a while back, they were wrapped. When I stripped it off there were no holes, but the whole surface was rusted, and they were pretty thin.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thats what I mean, on racer maybe, not road NA.

Im doing it becuse 1. Its turbocharged, 2. Its a custom exhaust manifold and dump pipe... cant just go buy one like this Its a work of art!

Pete.

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

Speaking of inside and out, if I do get it done, will it effect the work done by GR on the inlet manifold or should it be left alone or maybe I should ask if they can do just the outside. I'm not sure how they do it, maybe they dip the whole item. I like the idea of reducing heat in the car, mine gets pretty hot. As far as looks go, well you dont see much of the mini manifold and extractors, even with a weber on.

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club

They clean it (sand blast) then dry in oven, then spray thin coats (inside and out) then bake it, then throw in a polisher machine which blasts tiny balls at it and all through it to polish it all up)

I think it will do good, not sure if GR says to do inside and out on the intake manifold... but I think so. Better check with the man.

Pete.

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

I have 120hp and it's not hot. Don't worry about it. Heat preservation is what ceramic coating and wraps are all about. They keep the heat in the pipes as hot air is thinner and travels at a faster speed through the pipes.

So long as your engine is not overheating, you want it to run hot. The hotter they run, the more power you will make. I have problems getting it to running temperatures as it is.

Save your money and spend it on good tyres

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Don't do the intake, from memory GR says it loses power when the inside is polished smooth. When he ported mine he left is rough and there was a reason for it.

If you do ceramic coat the intake, remove the ceramic coating from inside. Anyway if you ceramic coat the extractors, there is minimal heat that seeps through to the intake anyway. Most of the heat gets transfered to the intake from contact with the head. This is why it's just not worth doing the intake. Just polish it like I did if it you really want to.

As I said, just leave it! 120 or more can be achieved without doing no such fancy stuff...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Yes, polish the exhaust to a mirror, but leave the intake surface rough. You want the intake rough because it promotes turbulence in the charge which in turn promotes faster/more thorough combustion, and more power.

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

If you don't ceramic coat the Redline inlet, polish it up outside to reflect the heat.
Works on mine....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks for your help everyone, advice taken! Cheers.

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Flute - 68 MK I Cooper S
Member: VMCI #2474
Member: International Mini Model Collectors Club