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Billet steel Flywheel
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Author:  Volodkovich [ Wed Oct 31, 2007 2:04 pm ]
Post subject:  Billet steel Flywheel
So, I'm looking at getting a Billet steel flywheel for the mini.

Car is a weekend warrior, so im thinking about an Ultralight flywheel. Does anyone have any recommendations etc about these? I'm thinking 4kg shouldnt be too light, and it will rev nicely.

I have heard bad things about minispares flywheels, and that MED ones are good. Can anyone confirm this?

I was going to lighten the standard cast one, but the steel ones arent that expensive (only a couple hundred more than lightening would cost) and will give me some piece of mind.
Author:  smac [ Thu Nov 01, 2007 9:27 am ]
Post subject: 
Some claim they're too light for a road car but methinks those are just people who haven't tried one. I think there were some issues with earlier MS ones but I have one and no issues what so ever.
Author:  Matt68 [ Thu Nov 01, 2007 9:27 am ]
Post subject: 
I have used Minispares (UK) flywheels and MED flywheels. The MED product is far superior IMHO.

Freight will be about the same for a bare flywheel as for the whole assembly, so think about that as an option too!!

Don't go with a slotted cast iron flywheel, (AKA a lightened standard one, lightened too far) asking for trouble with those.

Cheers

Matt
Author:  Mick [ Thu Nov 01, 2007 10:06 am ]
Post subject: 
smac wrote:
Some claim they're too light for a road car but methinks those are just people who haven't tried one. I think there were some issues with earlier MS ones but I have one and no issues what so ever.


Wasn't the issue that the flywheel was warped from the factory at the time?
Author:  smac [ Thu Nov 01, 2007 2:31 pm ]
Post subject: 
Mick, the Doc had experience with one with way too much run-out. Other than that I've heard nothing other than "my mate knew someone who met a guy..."

Matt- what was superior?
Author:  drmini in aust [ Thu Nov 01, 2007 6:42 pm ]
Post subject: 
There was also a thread on MiniMania forum this year about some UK `too light' steel ones breaking near the hub, lots of allegations and innuendo but no names mentioned on whose they were.
Just be careful what you buy .
It it looks too light, really it probably is. :wink:
Author:  KLAS [ Thu Nov 01, 2007 6:44 pm ]
Post subject: 
smac wrote:
Other than that I've heard nothing other than "my mate knew someone who met a guy..."


i can tell by own experience the an ultra-light flywheel don't work well for me in my 998ccm with proven 65 HP. its a pain in city traffic and only a bit better on the open road. but its a "race-only" part in a fast road engine so maybe a "normal" lightened flywheel will be more usable.

and i have seen pics of a MS flywheel where the center just broke away, it looked like a pressed in part that fit to the crank
Author:  justminis [ Thu Nov 01, 2007 8:35 pm ]
Post subject: 
I used an ultra light steel 1 piece flywheel sourced from the UK in early 90's for some years and on every occasion had significant drama getting the thing off the crank :evil: . There was some clutch shudder also. I know how to set up clutches and fit flywheels but didn't matter.

Then there was talk about runout on these units so got it checked and sure enough had quite a bit. Don't know though if the runout may have been caused by the extreme pressure applied by the puller or there originally.

It was so much of a pain to get off, I had a 2 piece steel flywheel made by my friendly machinist that uses the std bolt in 2 piece centre. It is slightly heavier than the UL job but I have never had a problem getting this flywheel off. Cost me about the same as purchase of UL job.

Believe the design of UL flywheel has been improved more recently, going away from the 3 big slots.

Anyone want to buy a "used only on Sundays" UL flywheel? :D
Author:  minicranks [ Thu Nov 08, 2007 5:34 am ]
Post subject: 
the issue with the ultra light flywheels is they tend to travel up the crank nose.

I had a ultra ultra light flywheel it was 2.9kgs and in my last race it decided to disintergrate out of the bell housing in 2 places about 30deg short of a sex change, it was the ring gear that let go as it was a machined part of the flywheel then took a pice of the flywheel with it.

road flyhweels are great at around 4.5-5kgs and race at aboput 3.5/
they are being locally made here and are available for between $450 and $550 +gst.
Author:  Lillee [ Thu Nov 08, 2007 8:01 am ]
Post subject: 
If it is a road warrior, don't bother. Spend the money elsewhere. A properly lightenned std flywheel is fine for the application.

Spend the money on say... the head :D
Author:  Volodkovich [ Thu Nov 08, 2007 1:48 pm ]
Post subject: 
I heard there is also issues with steel fly's friction welding themselves to the crank?

KAD uk do an alloy fly with a cast iron centre to combat this.
Author:  Smiffy [ Thu Nov 08, 2007 10:19 pm ]
Post subject: 
Fitting a ultralite steel flywheel is probably the best mod `I have made to my 1380. It's an early Minispares item with the 3 large slots. The only issue I've ever had, is as above the flywheel pulling itself up the crank taper. This caused a strange vibration at around 4500rpms. This has now been sorted by a tip from a friend on a new regime during assembly, the flywheel is now tightened using the CUP of TEA method.
Assemble everything but don't bend over the lock tab, go make a cup of tea and drink it. In the meantime the flywheel pull up the taper. After drinking said cuppa go back and re-tighten/torque the flywheel. Honestly you'll be amazed at how slack it is.
Author:  Mick [ Thu Nov 08, 2007 10:22 pm ]
Post subject: 
Ha ha, will this work for other beverages?
Author:  DOZ [ Fri Nov 09, 2007 6:01 am ]
Post subject: 
Does anyone have a "cup of Tea" to "Carton" conversion? (I am from SW Sydney you know).

i.e. 1 Cup of Tea = 2/24 Cartons??

DOZ
Author:  Smiffy [ Fri Nov 09, 2007 10:53 am ]
Post subject: 
Mick wrote:
Ha ha, will this work for other beverages?


Won't work with a tinny Mick, doesn't take enough time to get to the fridge ;)
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