Hi all
I am putting my engine together on the weekend. Is there any little tricks I can do to make sure it doesnt leak and or fly to bits in any sort of way?. I am pretty clear on the obvious stuff but often its the stuff you dont think of that causes you greif later on.

Thanks Michael

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Make sure you don't put thrust washers in backwards

Don't even think about dropping in the dizzy drive without putting a screw in it first

After starting the engine for the first time and letting it cool overnight, retension the head and check rocker clearances.

do not put lubricant between the mating faces of the conrod, keep them dry (but do put lube on the threads of conrod bolts/nuts)

thats a start anyway

Daniel

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

1. If it's a 998/1098 and you don't know how old the rod bolts are, buy NEW ones. Preferably Unbrako socket head capscrews, or ARP race bolts.
They make a mess when they let go... I bought one like that.
2. Put the piston circlips in with the rounded face inwards. ie the sharp burred edge outwards. They stay in better...
3. Put the rod caps on the right way round- the bearing notches on rod and cap go on the same side of the rod journal when assembled.
Likewise the centre main cap.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Fill the oil pump with petrolium jelly, it gets you oil pressure really quick. Make sure you spin the engine without plugs in it till your get oil pressure.

Oil the valve stems before you install them.

Dont forget to fill the oil filter and cooler

A healthy oil system is the best start you can give your engine in life

When doing the first test run, especially if you've put a new cam in and you're running it in, make sure you dont have carpet or rags under the car. I left some crap under there and the extractors set them on fire

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-Wasabi
1972 Clubman - Daily Driver
1962 850 - EW1 Powered

dont stand with your head over the carbies, with no air filter mine spat petrol in my face lucky for me nothing lit the petrol

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Enjoy Chris

thanks guys

Should all mateing surfaces get silicon or similar on both sides?

Should I use loktite on all threads?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

If you haven't decked the block or machined the head and the faces are a little rough around the water galleries use a light spray of Hylomar onto both surfaces, available from Super Cheap. Get some flexi gauge and check your big end and main clearances, check them with no oil on the bearings and put it on when you are finished. Use a paste pipe sealant not thread tape around tapered fittings as it looks better without the ends of the tape hanging out. Get a 20 litre drum pump and put a fitting into the block oil gallery (where the oil pressure sensor goes is good), connect the pump hose onto the fitting and pump away until the oil level comes up on the dipstick, this makes sure you have oil up to your cam and rockers before turning the engine over. Make sure the oil and pump are spotless or you pump dirt straight into your bearings etc. Put a smear of vasseline on the cork gaskets and the dont dry out and harden as quickly. When you do the first valve set, before you adjust each rocker, wind the screw all the way in till the rocker contacts the valve then 1 complete turn, this forces the oil in the cam follower hollow and the push rod hollow out and gives a more accurate setting. Back off the adjusting screw and adjust the rocker as normal after that.

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Michael N

would you recommend using a sealant on the welsh plugs too?

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Use this.

http://www2.blackwoods.com.au/infoBANKP ... &P=2024666

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Michael N

also,

on your first start up stuff the end of a stocking in you top radiator hose then fold it back over so its underneith the hose clamp when you put the hose on. if your blocks been dipped or just sitting for a while there will be nasty floaters in there that will instantly block you radiator. This catches em all so you just have to pull the hose off and chuck em away.

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posting help to your own thread at this time of the morning?

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Im just passing on info as I learn it is all. best to add it here so its all nice and neat.

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"would you recommend using a sealant on the welsh plugs too?"

yep, Stag Jointing Compound.