OK thanks for that Rodney. I'll have a squint at it on Sat week.
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| Cut Hole in Rear Bulkhead https://ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=36858 |
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| Author: | MiniBob [ Thu Oct 18, 2007 8:40 am ] |
| Post subject: | Cut Hole in Rear Bulkhead |
Has anyone had any experience of cutting a hole out in the rear panel behind the seats ? I need to get at the off side shock mount. I have a '98 MPi and there is no way that I am going to attempt to move the fuel tank. If anyone has a template or some measurements perhaps, that would be awesome. I have seen this thread on the International Mini Encyclopedia web site. Shock Absorbers, easier access Jim Houston has this tip: "Anyone who has changed the rear shocks on a Mini knows about the necessity to remove the fuel tank to gain access to the top of the shock. This can be a real pain! On my '64 Morris Cooper "S", I cut a hole in the rear bulkhead in line with the shock mount. Mine were about 6" high and 8" wide, but you can size to fit - just remember you will be working through this hole with both hands and a couple of wrenches. This allows access to the shock mount without removing the fuel tank. The hole can be covered using an aluminum plate, gasket and either some self-tapping sheet metal screws or Tinnerman fasteners. If you have two tanks, cut two holes." The maintainers of the IME were concerned about the use of hole cutting in a panel that does have some structural function, hence this follow-up: "I understand your concern about structural members. I considered that before making the modification myself. However, I figured that since BLMC puts a big round hole in the center of the rear bulkhead, a couple of small holes shouldn't present any problems. In addition, if the panel used to cover the hole is secured properly, there is no loss of strength in any event. I used aircraft specification hardware, and spaced the screws 2" apart (which gave me one at each corner, 2 on top and bottom and one on each side - total 10 fasteners). There are numerous panels on aircraft that are structural in nature and are removable - it is a function of the fasteners being of good quality (that's why I used aircraft hardware), and in sufficient quantity, plus the thickness of the panel (I used .040 thickness). All in all, I drove the car from 1975 to 1984 without any problems appearing as the result of this modification." ... which sounded a lot better to us. |
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| Author: | sports850 [ Thu Oct 18, 2007 8:46 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I had thought of it a few years ago but then decided that I'd like to remove the fuel tank to avoid the risk of cutting into the tank while making the holes , then I realised I didn't need the holes as the tank was out . If you were going through shock absorbers from rough roads or changing them occasionally for performance then yes it'd be worthwhile , just make sure it'd be big enough to be able to reach in and around the tank in case you drop a socket or nut and it sits in there rattling around . |
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| Author: | MiniBob [ Thu Oct 18, 2007 9:21 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks mate. I had thought about the points you make, dropping stuff behind the tank etc, and I'll be pooing myself when I make the first small hole very carefully indeed. I have borrowed a set of both LH and RH tin snips. I need to adjust the Koni's 'cos the mileage is at the recommended point plus it will be good to make sure there are no jumps or that they are not like a bycycle pump !! The access will be good for future changes too. I'll let you know how I get on. |
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| Author: | Rodney [ Thu Oct 18, 2007 6:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Bob, Would your fuel tank be the same as the clubby??? If so, would another tank be useful with any measurements etc. that you need to do before drilling/cutting??? I have a spare one that's hanging about in the garage somewhere. Let me know if you need it mate. |
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| Author: | MiniBob [ Fri Oct 19, 2007 8:19 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
OK thanks for that Rodney. I'll have a squint at it on Sat week.
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| Author: | smiling_simon [ Fri Oct 19, 2007 10:23 am ] |
| Post subject: | rear shocker panel access |
My mini (ex-racer) came with a pre-cut panels, only about 120x80mm wide, I could send you pictures but i'm going interstate tomorrow. It's got two holes (above/below) drilled and uses some sheet metal to cover the holes so the RWC and CAMS guys are happy. If you can source some fuel valves, put these on your tanks (between them and the car's fuel line), they save alot of mucking around when doing this kind of stuff - means you don't have to drain your fuel tanks each time you want to remove them. |
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| Author: | MiniBob [ Fri Oct 19, 2007 4:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks for the info Simon, the piccies would be great. Good idea about the valves too. |
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| Author: | MiniBob [ Fri Nov 02, 2007 12:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Well bit the bullet last night and cut a hole in the rear bulkhead ! Drilled a very small hole at first and poked a bit of wire thru to judge the clearance and there was loads so I opened it up using the hole cutter to about 20mm. Still couldn't see much because there is some sound deadening between the panel and fuel tank so I used my smallest pink digit  All clear so out with the tin cutters.
End result was a (fairly) neat hole about 100mm dia and I got the location spot on in front of the shock mount. After a few minutes of gently turning the nut I realised the bloody thing was just turning the shock so I clamped the shock under the wheel arch with the mole grips and then got the nut off ok. There was room to put my lh finger on the top of the nut while turning the spanner with the other hand. Couldn't get a socket on it or a ratchet ring 'cos the top of the mount touches the tank. I took some piccies and will put them up soon. |
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