There is a thread for Mini dealers, or someone might sell you one, put this into 'Wanted' !
I would say 1300 short motor for rebuild $300 - $600 dependant on condition. Import 1300 A-Plus $600 - $800.
Long motor (inc G-box) $1000- $1500?
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| 1400cc engine https://ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=34609 |
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| Author: | redauxr6ii [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 11:27 am ] |
| Post subject: | 1400cc engine |
Hey All, Does anyone know where to pickup a 1300 or 1400cc engine in AUS? And what sort of price should I expect? Cheers |
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| Author: | graham in aus [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 12:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
There is a thread for Mini dealers, or someone might sell you one, put this into 'Wanted' ! I would say 1300 short motor for rebuild $300 - $600 dependant on condition. Import 1300 A-Plus $600 - $800. Long motor (inc G-box) $1000- $1500?
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| Author: | graham in aus [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 12:23 pm ] |
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Dealers link: http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10543 
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 12:50 pm ] |
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The idea of a 1400 may sound appealing but I would not buy a s/h one, you are better off to BUILD one. Then you know it's fresh. 
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| Author: | redauxr6ii [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 1:00 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I currently have an 1100 motor\gearbox would I be able to just get this honed\bored out to 1300? |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 1:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
No, to go to 1400 or so you need an 1100S, which are a 1275 to start with. Or use any other 1275. You can bore these to 1380, bore is then 73.5mm. To get 1400 without stroking you need 74mm pistons which are rocking horse dung now, Mini ones anyway. standard bore oversizes- +.020" = 1293 +.040" = 1310 +.060" = 1330 73.0mm = 1360 73.5m = 1380 1100 motor you have can only bore to max 1220cc, with 68mm Imp or bike pistons, if you can get them. Waste of time these days. 
standard bore sizes: +.020" = 1120cc +.040" = 1132cc +.060" = 1152cc Russell Engineering had +.080" and +.100" ones coming, but not here yet. |
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| Author: | redauxr6ii [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 1:24 pm ] |
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So I should look for a second hand 1275 and bore that out to 1380? |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 2:46 pm ] |
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I would bore it to 1360, then when worn you can bore again to get 1380. Once that wears out again, the block is toast, really. If you want more cc, get a big journal 1100S crank stroked 3mm, and use Cooper S rods. That will take a 1360 to 1411 or so. |
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| Author: | Boostedmini [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 4:17 pm ] |
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I have a complete Clubman 1275LS motor and gearbox for sale, it does not have a head with it but one can be found easy enough. Grant PM me if interested. |
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| Author: | willy [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 7:02 pm ] |
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As Grant said, 1275LS had the big journal crank, as did all A+ 1275s, straight out the box... so you have a fair few to choose from. Strokers are good
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 7:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
willy wrote: Strokers are good
I'll believe that when I get mine going. But non-strokers rev better for longer, their cranks are hardened.
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| Author: | slinkey inc [ Thu Aug 09, 2007 5:25 pm ] |
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I've heard stories about big journal cranks being not as hard as a good small journal. (I have EN40B S crank). But many people use them in the UK, so the stories could quite well be exagerated. I'd recommend heat treating any stroked big journal cranks, just for piece of mind. Oh, and I agree with the doc, bore out to 1360, I doubt you'd notice the difference between 1380 and 1360, and being a 1.36L it it rounds off to 1.4L so you've got a "1400"  .
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| Author: | KLAS [ Thu Aug 09, 2007 5:51 pm ] |
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slinkey inc wrote: I've heard stories about big journal cranks being not as hard as a good small journal.
i know some big journal cranks that just break in factory engines, most were the "detomaso" engines, 72HP, fitted to the Bertone designed Innocenti. A+ block with A series crank (i've been told, never checked it myself) |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Thu Aug 09, 2007 7:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Be careful buying s/h big journal cranks, Morris 1100S ones with the BFHeavy flywheel tended to crack them at the c-clip grooves on the crank tail. Crack test before you buy, and I don't mean `ping' the webs with a spanner.
There are a few crack detection methods, cheapest that works is `dyecheck' and I have a kit. |
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