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Engine Rebuild on the books
https://ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=34440		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  sociallydisabled [ Thu Aug 02, 2007 9:23 pm ]
Post subject:  Engine Rebuild on the books
Okay, i was toying with the idea of a engine conversion, but i just need to get my mini finished, so now im going to stick with my old 1275, so just a few questions about some suttle mods i can do while the engine is apart getting its rebuild, obviously i want some power but im not gonna go crazy, what do you guys suggest i do... i want extractors new zorst, possibly twin su's or a weber prob stick with the single for the time being, but i read about different cams....and im not really sure about how to go about deciding on one...what else can you guys suggest? i know this is vague but im not very cluey on my engine bits...so some guidance would be appreciated :) cheers guys:)
Author:  Spaceboy [ Thu Aug 02, 2007 10:31 pm ]
Post subject: 
first, how much money do you want to spend

and second, what do you want to use the car for, or what do you currently use the car for..
daily driver, weekend warrior? club racer?
Author:  sociallydisabled [ Thu Aug 02, 2007 10:38 pm ]
Post subject: 
i dont have a figure at the moment, im really just looking into roughly how much its going to cost. then ill work out what i can afford. the car at the moment is a nothing... its sitting in my shed waiting to be finished. (pics here http://s28.photobucket.com/albums/c211/SociallyDisabled/Mini/) it will be a daily driver, but i want a little bit of power for my own personal fun and for a bit of a wank :) come on im young lol i want something reliable too though or reliable enough haha hence rebuild
Author:  drmini in aust [ Fri Aug 03, 2007 7:46 am ]
Post subject: 
The secret to getting power from a 1275 or any A series, really- is the camshaft. None of the stock BMC fitted cams are suitable for decent power.
Decide what you want to use the car for primarily, then make sure you fit a suitable cam during the rebuild. On most 1275s, this can not be changed once engine is in the car.
If your local traffic is light I'd go for an RE13 from Russell Engineering, but I'm biased... :lol: however I've had around 6 different grinds now in my road cars from various makers, and find the RE13 shades them all for sporty road use, is OK in traffic too. 8) I currently run an RE282 but this is no longer available. :cry:
Other stuff like carbs, exhaust, head etc can be swapped about later but the cam is the key to performance. Do this one right during rebuild.
Author:  sociallydisabled [ Sun Aug 05, 2007 6:19 pm ]
Post subject: 
very light local traffic lol, lots of open roads....where would i get this cam from? jus from russel engineering or do mini places stock it ? and how much am i lookin at? roughly
Author:  gafmo [ Sun Aug 05, 2007 6:31 pm ]
Post subject: 
sociallydisabled wrote:
very light local traffic lol, lots of open roads....where would i get this cam from? jus from russel engineering or do mini places stock it ? and how much am i lookin at? roughly

If your thinking a RE13 which I would also recomend as you are doing light local and lots of open roads (Wife Daily Drive has no troubles with Peak Hour Traffic, Parra Rd) Contact GR diretly..and if you suprly a cam it will make it cheaper and quicker...Sorry contact GR for the price..he is very reasable, he has done a lot for us..just say your from Ausmini 8)
Author:  drmini in aust [ Sun Aug 05, 2007 6:45 pm ]
Post subject: 
Contact Graham Russell on (02) 9630 2195, business hours.
He puts a regrind on YOUR cam, doesn't do exchange.
Any stock Mini cam will do for this, but 1275 ones are wider lobe.
Author:  sociallydisabled [ Sun Aug 05, 2007 6:46 pm ]
Post subject: 
so i just supply my old cam? or is there a specific one i need? and if i was to go for a bigger bore aswell what would you guys reccomend?
Author:  drmini in aust [ Sun Aug 05, 2007 6:48 pm ]
Post subject: 
yep, see my post above. Tell him what size motor it's for, he has a few variations on this grind now.
Author:  sociallydisabled [ Sun Aug 05, 2007 7:13 pm ]
Post subject: 
okay cheers mate


thanks for the help :)
Author:  dove grey 64 [ Sun Aug 05, 2007 8:35 pm ]
Post subject: 
its all in the head and cam, you can blow heaps on both of them too, depends on how far you want to go :D , good luck mate tell us what you end up getting
Author:  sociallydisabled [ Sun Aug 05, 2007 8:50 pm ]
Post subject: 
defintely will, hopefully it will be happpening in the next couple of weeks. should i get anything done to the head? nothing too major as of yet... like double valve springs and rockers and all that gear? and can you still buy that vizard book ?
Author:  drmini in aust [ Sun Aug 05, 2007 9:00 pm ]
Post subject: 
sociallydisabled wrote:
defintely will, hopefully it will be happpening in the next couple of weeks. should i get anything done to the head? nothing too major as of yet... like double valve springs and rockers and all that gear? and can you still buy that vizard book ?

If it's a 78 Clubby S (998) with the `smog' head, I'd look at changing it to a 202 or 295 head which have bigger valves and ports to start with.
The stock head is very restrictive and needs major work to make it breathe.
With a cam change you should look at new double valve springs- a Cooper S duplex set works fine with RE13.
Also, you need a set of new cam followers whenever you fit a reground cam. Don't be tempted to reface the old ones, they are probably chipped/worn, and new ones are cheap.
Author:  sociallydisabled [ Sun Aug 05, 2007 9:02 pm ]
Post subject: 
its a 1275 from an 1100s so no smog head. whats a good bore size?
Author:  gafmo [ Sun Aug 05, 2007 9:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
I'd get your Crank crack tested...piece of mind and also get it checked so its perfect. The Rods shouldn't need much attention but i'd also get the head checked out also with the valvue's
Get the the block bore'd only to next required or honed if thats all it needs
New oil pump and get it put togther correctly.
Then you come to your box..and thats a question all in itself.
Carb wise its your choice :wink: but in the end get it all dyno'd tuned so it all runs perfectly

$$ = Performance and less work afterwards
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