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SNAP!
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Author:  jbeenz [ Sat Jun 09, 2007 8:19 am ]
Post subject:  SNAP!

Um, i was putting a 998 engine together last night, and i snapped a rod bolt :shock:
Through overtightening due to torque wrench issues, anyway, its got me thinking, if i can snap one, whats the enging going to do to the rest?
these were not stock bolts, stamped with 10 lines and "FX".
so do i try find another, or revert to stock rod bolts.?
998
lightened rods
wade cam.
going for nice revvy smallbore.

Author:  drmini in aust [ Sat Jun 09, 2007 9:02 am ]
Post subject: 

Best rod bolts for a quick smallbore are `Unbrako' brand socket head capscrews, that's what GR uses. Lube em with oil or a smear of molygrease, do up to 40lb/ft, with no lockwasher.
Alternative is go buy ARP race ones from Minispares etc.
I don't trust the standard rodbolts, particularly if S/H. They make an awful mess of the motor and box if they let go. I bought a ventilated one last year. :lol:

Author:  jbeenz [ Sat Jun 09, 2007 9:07 am ]
Post subject: 

Yea, i have a ventilated 998 block at home also, thats why im woried! worst thing is it was smeered with loktight so i had to get the broken half out fairly quickly!
its been a while since bolt grade school, what does 10 dashes mean?
what are a set of "unbrako" 's worth?

Author:  PetenSoaf [ Sat Jun 09, 2007 9:46 am ]
Post subject: 

jbeenz wrote:
Yea, i have a ventilated 998 block at home also, thats why im woried! worst thing is it was smeered with loktight so i had to get the broken half out fairly quickly!
its been a while since bolt grade school, what does 10 dashes mean?
what are a set of "unbrako" 's worth?


And I guess, just as importantly, where do you get them?

Author:  drmini in aust [ Sat Jun 09, 2007 9:50 am ]
Post subject: 

See http://www.americanfastener.com/technic ... _steel.asp
can't see any bolts there with 10 marking.
Unbrakos are grade 12 I think. But don't buy Chinese made...

see http://www.unbrako.com/
download the catalog

<edit> I'd avoid ANY fasteners that are plated.. I once peeled the threads off some plated Grade 8 (7/16 UNF) diff bolts before they got up to the torque setting..... :x

Author:  mason [ Sat Jun 09, 2007 3:16 pm ]
Post subject: 

Is there two rod bolt sizes from factory

Author:  drmini in aust [ Sat Jun 09, 2007 9:02 pm ]
Post subject: 

mason wrote:
Is there two rod bolt sizes from factory

The smallbores all run a 3/8" UNF hex bolt. Don't have one handy right now but I think were all the same.

The 1275s with S rods (ie small journal crank) use a 3/8" UNF `shaped head' bolt, and nut.

The 1275s with big journal crank (both A series and A+) use 11/32" UNF `shaped head' bolts and nuts.

Author:  slinkey inc [ Sat Jun 09, 2007 11:12 pm ]
Post subject: 

Interesting. S has bigger diametre rod bolts than big journal ones. mmmmmmm yummm 8)

Author:  brickworx [ Sat Jun 09, 2007 11:19 pm ]
Post subject: 

That also means they have less meat in the conrod...
6 of one 1/2 dozen of another

Author:  slinkey inc [ Sat Jun 09, 2007 11:28 pm ]
Post subject: 

Bugger!!

Less meat = lighter. Less meat also = more chance of break!

To quote the Blues Brothers, or close enough
Quote:
Oh no, the motor's thrown a rod!


Ah that's ok. My motors not a race motor.

Author:  drmini in aust [ Sun Jun 10, 2007 12:18 pm ]
Post subject: 

slinkey inc wrote:
Bugger!!

Less meat = lighter. Less meat also = more chance of break!

To quote the Blues Brothers, or close enough
Quote:
Oh no, the motor's thrown a rod!


Ah that's ok. My motors not a race motor.

All Cooper S rods are made of EN24V, the good stuff.
Big journal rods for the 1275 A series were 50g heavier than S rods and made from EN19 and later EN16.
A+ rods are nice and light, made of EN15. In spite of this Vizard says they are fine for a 7500 rev limit.

Weakest point on all these 1275 rods is the bolts- if S/H you don't know how old they are or how used. Buy new ones, preferably ARPs. :wink:

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