Total agree Danidad but I would also ad a nice Cam also so it can breath better also.
Where are you t-bone this will help in leading you in the rite direction for contacts
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| upgrading an 1100 https://ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=3152 |
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| Author: | t-bone [ Tue Nov 30, 2004 10:22 am ] |
| Post subject: | upgrading an 1100 |
I own a mini k 1100 which has extractors and twin carb, and am wanting to increase the performance of the car. I have a budget of about $2000. Can anybody please offer any suggestions... |
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| Author: | danidad [ Tue Nov 30, 2004 10:45 am ] |
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Ok lets see who agree's... engine performance is mainly from the top of the piston upwards ie the head etc..sure you can lighten bits below which is probably more technical than you would be wanting to go.. the bottom end has to be strong enough to hold up to the extra power without busting. headwork would be a good start point as you already have the carbs and exhaust modified.. if you are sure the bottom end is reasonably sound Id say go for new pistons rings and bearings, plus some headwork done by a reputable mini mechanic (and i dont mean a dwarf LOL) ok this is just to get some other feedback. im sure someone will disagree.. if you arent mechanicly minded it might be a good idea to get the said mini mechanic to have a looksee so you dont spend all your cash only to have something else come appart.. |
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| Author: | gafmo [ Tue Nov 30, 2004 10:54 am ] |
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Total agree Danidad but I would also ad a nice Cam also so it can breath better also. Where are you t-bone this will help in leading you in the rite direction for contacts
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| Author: | thommo09 [ Tue Nov 30, 2004 12:32 pm ] |
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i woulda said head and cam and then get it all tuned on a rolling road.......that should leave you with some change from $2000......i dunno about spending hard earned on new pistons and rings if there's nothing wrong with what you've already got 
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| Author: | Chris [ Tue Nov 30, 2004 1:37 pm ] |
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thommo09 wrote: i woulda said head and cam and then get it all tuned on a rolling road.......that should leave you with some change from $2000......i dunno about spending hard earned on new pistons and rings if there's nothing wrong with what you've already got
There is an old saying in the automotive world. If the motor has done any substantial mileage as soon as the compression is increased it will start to push oil past the rings. We used to refuse to replace head gaskets on old motors as the owner was gauranteed to complain no matter how carefully it was explained. If it uses oil now it will use heaps more after increasing the compression. |
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| Author: | Wolfman [ Tue Nov 30, 2004 2:05 pm ] |
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Chris wrote: thommo09 wrote: i woulda said head and cam and then get it all tuned on a rolling road.......that should leave you with some change from $2000......i dunno about spending hard earned on new pistons and rings if there's nothing wrong with what you've already got There is an old saying in the automotive world. If the motor has done any substantial mileage as soon as the compression is increased it will start to push oil past the rings. We used to refuse to replace head gaskets on old motors as the owner was gauranteed to complain no matter how carefully it was explained. If it uses oil now it will use heaps more after increasing the compression. I have to agree with Chris here, as my Grandfather always said "if it's worth doing it's worth doing it right" he always was a perfectionist, but anything he built or fixed stayed that way (and was probably 10X stronger than it needed to be  ).
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| Author: | thommo09 [ Tue Nov 30, 2004 5:11 pm ] |
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guys, please read the entire post......."if there's nothing wrong with what you've already got" I didn't say "stick a head and cam on your 150 000mile smoky donk".... maybe i shoulda been a bit more specific and said "if there's nothing wrong with what you've already got and it's low mileage" but having said that you dont have to increase the comp ratio.....i mean if you're upgrading the head then the chances are you would have to skim it to retain the same compression ratio due to the bigger combustion chamber (right??  ).............or am i off the mark?
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| Author: | Chris [ Tue Nov 30, 2004 9:26 pm ] |
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thommo09 wrote: guys, please read the entire post......."if there's nothing wrong with what you've already got" I didn't say "stick a head and cam on your 150 000mile smoky donk"....
I too didn't say that it would be anything other than successful. All I did was point out the problems that can be had on a high mileage motor. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Nov 30, 2004 10:38 pm ] |
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If you want a 1098 to GO, the secret is the cam you use. But headwork helps, and more carb(s) is a must.. Don't be afraid to stick a cam in there with a bit of lift and duration. Around 270* is nice. Being a long stroke motor it will still pull pretty well down low. Try and keep it to 6500 RPM max, 7000 if blueprinted & balanced. They do object to using 8500.. as I found out way back. 
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| Author: | Rupert [ Thu Dec 02, 2004 8:10 am ] |
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for $2000 buy a 1275 and carryout the Honda disk brake conversion!!! Done. |
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| Author: | JC [ Thu Dec 02, 2004 9:12 am ] |
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Just sold a A+ 1275 and metro turbo discs for less. You would had some change. |
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