Just wondering what bearings i'm supposed to use of the Metro Hub. It seems as though you can't use tapered bearings... The drive flange is flush up against the bearings which are flush up against the cv. If i use a tapered bearing i wont be able to tension it properly and tighten it fully at the same time... Should i be using Normal Bearings??

Given that so many people before you have used metro hubs on a mini,
I'd say the bearings are the same as mini ones, therefore tapered bearings can be used.
Is there a spacer for in between the inner races?

Definitely same bearing.

Tapered roller bearings can be used in any Mini, Metro or Morris 1100 front swivel hub.
Drum or disc, internal dimensions of swivel hub are the same.
The rollers have a load capacity approx 2x that of the ball bearings, and will last heaps longer.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yeah there is a spacer between the bearings.

so how do i put them in?

Press in seal,
Press in the outer tapered piece closest to the outside,
put in the inner race,
put in the spacer,
put in the other inner race,
and then press on the outer piece?
Press in seal.
Put the cv joint through the bearings,
bolt the rotor to the flange,
put the flange on the cv spline,
then tighten the main bolt?

Does anyone know the torque setting? or do i tighten as much as possible. or do i tighten to a stage that the split pin is going to work?

Did my bearings last weekend.

Put the two outer races into the hub.
Fit seal spacer ring on inner side (if applicable).
Get the CV, fit the grease seal, and inner race of bearing, and spacer/
Insert into hub
Insert other inner race (front).
Tap in grease seal.
Fit drive flange.

Nuts have different settings depending on disc or drum application, and I've read
somewhere the torque differs depending on the number of split pin holes too.
From memory, disc hub nuts should be done to 150 ft/lb.
And don't quote me on this, but it could also be an insane 200 ft/lb for the single drilled CVs.

So what is stopping the outer cups from moving once they are pressed in? I noticed that my rear brakes had an outer spacer built in, that would make the tapered bearings work, what is stopping the outer cups from moving towards each other and losing the correct tension? I would have thought there should be this inbuilt spacer for the outer cups.

There is a spacer that sits between the outer races that is part of the actual hub.