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pg 2, cylinder head modifications.
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Author:  andbat [ Tue Feb 13, 2007 9:12 pm ]
Post subject:  pg 2, cylinder head modifications.
out of these 2 which is the best for my stocko 998cc

and yes i mean poer/torque wise

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... :IT&ih=020

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... :IT&ih=009

(don't worry bout price)

ps: will a ramflow also help a little bit more power wise? help her breathe better?
Author:  1018cc [ Tue Feb 13, 2007 9:39 pm ]
Post subject: 
I'm currently running a LCB on my 998 +0.020" (alot of people will argue that it's a bad choice but I'm happy - plus it's my car) but I'm doing more to the engine - I don't think they are that bad but it was always my intention to work the engine a little bit.

If this was all that you were going to do to your engine then I would probably go for the 3-1's, otherwise if you have more performance mods to do to your engine I don't see anything wrong with LCB's.

Its up to you because ALOT of people will argue that 3-1's are all you will ever need on a 998.
Author:  andbat [ Wed Feb 14, 2007 6:40 am ]
Post subject: 
whats the increase with the 3-1s cause i wat looking at it and i thought it just looks like a stocko manifold.

how does 3-1s actually increas the power of the car?
Author:  sports850 [ Wed Feb 14, 2007 6:54 am ]
Post subject: 
The way to look at it is anything is an improvement over the original cast iron manifold , the reason the factory used them was they were fairly cheap to make and strong , not neccesarily a good flow for performance .
Author:  miniobsessed [ Wed Feb 14, 2007 1:03 pm ]
Post subject: 
Actually the stock exhaust manifold isn't too bad if your only using a mild cam... You'd see a much bigger improvement in power and torque with a free flowing exhaust. In saying that... I know most people will do both at the same time ie. put extractors and a free flow exhaust on the car.
Author:  cush [ Wed Feb 14, 2007 1:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
if you're planning on a 1275 at some point, get one that will do both... save you buying in the future...
Author:  Lillee [ Wed Feb 14, 2007 1:36 pm ]
Post subject: 
850 to mild 1275 = Maniflow LCB. Don't muck around, buy the best.

There are others l know of but they cost $$$
Author:  andbat [ Sat Feb 17, 2007 6:48 pm ]
Post subject: 
would the LCB (or any extractors for that matter) actually help my engine out at low revs? or would it have to be going about 5000rpm?

is there better ways for me to spend $200 (or a little more) that will increase my engine power for everyday driving? like getting the head worked?
Author:  drmini in aust [ Sat Feb 17, 2007 7:26 pm ]
Post subject: 
andbat wrote:
would the LCB (or any extractors for that matter) actually help my engine out at low revs? or would it have to be going about 5000rpm?

is there better ways for me to spend $200 (or a little more) that will increase my engine power for everyday driving? like getting the head worked?

You will get more power by working the head than you will playing with exhaust, on a stocko motor.
I'd do the head, then pick up a good s/h 3-1 freeflow, there are plenty about.
They give better economy than an LCB too. 8)
Author:  DOZ [ Sat Feb 17, 2007 8:06 pm ]
Post subject: 
andbat wrote:
would the LCB (or any extractors for that matter) actually help my engine out at low revs? or would it have to be going about 5000rpm?

is there better ways for me to spend $200 (or a little more) that will increase my engine power for everyday driving? like getting the head worked?


It's unlikely that an exhaust upgrade is going to do anything useful without a cam/intake/headwork upgrade. This is mainly because adding a free flowing zoorst usually just results in less torque from a drop in trapping efficiency (often wrongly described as back-pressure, you don't necessarily need back-pressure to have good trapping efficiency).

The trick is to match the exhaust design to the head/intake & cam combo. This could be done except there isn't extractors on the market that are designed for std intake etc, even the cooper had twin SU's and different cam/head.

As Doc said, start with head mods or at least cam/carby change before zoorst. I sold a 3-1 cooper extractors for $50 recently, if you then add a 1&3/4" SU + cam grind + some head mods & tuning you might get for around $1k, $200 wouldn't buy much more than a service (It's $160+ for oil change at most dealers these days).

Regards

Daniel
Author:  andbat [ Sat Feb 17, 2007 8:27 pm ]
Post subject: 
so what should i do first for power? how much will it cost? i don't want to do everything at once just step by step.

is that possible?

or do i have to...

Quote:
if you then add a 1&3/4" SU + cam grind + some head mods & tuning you might get for around $1k


do it all at once for $1k ???
Author:  drmini in aust [ Sat Feb 17, 2007 8:30 pm ]
Post subject: 
I'd do the head first. Won't cost much if you do it yourself. :wink:
Back when I was your age I wore out 3 Black and Decker drills porting A series heads... :lol:
Author:  DOZ [ Sat Feb 17, 2007 8:47 pm ]
Post subject: 
DOZ wrote:
As Doc said, start with head mods or at least cam/carby change before zoorst.


If you can do head mods yourself then go for it, the other items all involve more expensive purchases. I was assuming you are only after bolt on mods (headwork by a machine shop lets say) without removing the engine entirely.

You can do it in any order really, just be aware that each mod may require tuning adjustments in between, that's why I think it's better to plan an upgrade and do it all at once.

Regards

Daniel
Author:  andbat [ Sat Feb 17, 2007 8:48 pm ]
Post subject: 
how do i do the head? (if anyone makes that sound suss i'll, i'll, i'll probly just be imbarressed)

how hard is it to do? what do i do? how long will my mini be off the road?

what am i trying to achive (mechanically) by doing what you are going to tell me to do?
Author:  drmini in aust [ Sat Feb 17, 2007 8:54 pm ]
Post subject: 
Buy a book. Vizard's Tuning BL's A series, or Vizard's how to modify your Mini.
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