Is it worth going to an electric pump over the standard cam driven one?
if so what sort of pressure should it run at and where would you mount it?

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If it's a stock Mini with a stock SU, probably not.
If it's modified and you got big carbs or a Weber etc, definitely.

You only need around 2-1/2psi max.

I use the little Facet/Purolator square solid state pumps- & mount them on a square Mini muffler mount, bolted to the subframe on LH side. They are a bit noisy but this shuts them up.
I've used them on SUs, Webers and Dellortos, without a regulator. No worries.

<edit> This pic was taken before wiring was finished....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Is it a bad thing to have them mounted on the firewall? Mine is the same pump as that, mounted on the firewall. It works, but the instructions say some stuff about mounting it near the fuel tank etc. I actually find that mostly my pump is quieter there, competing with the Dell'orto, than it is on the rear subframe, like in Christoph's Mini.

Yes they will work on the firewall but are then prone to vapour lock in hot weather. Just like a Morris Minor is..
Down the back is best as the fuel is under gravity pressure to the pump.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yeah I've been thinking of moving the pump anyway, then the firewall real estate could be used for a radiator surge tank instead (and I have to prepare for summer, still got to fit that matic heater)

Having said that would it be worth it if the stock pump died to go electric?
If they are about the same $$ i'll do it anyway.
I'm going to mod it later with head work cam and extractors.
Maybe just maybe then i'll be able to go fast in a straight line.

Where would i go to get one of these and mounting it on the rear subframe of a van would be the same as the car??

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Yes if the manual pump dies I'd go electric. But don't leave the old pump in there with fuel lines connected- if its diaphragm goes you will get petrol in your sump...

I got my pumps from Robbos Spares, but most spares places can get them. Mine's the 2nd smallest one, 5/16" lines.

Van subframe is the same as car.

My red car has it mounted in an SU pump bracket, with polyurethane foam in between pump & bracket. It's pretty quiet, too.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'm curious as to how the solid state ones work - do they have a diaphram like regular pumps?

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

I guess they must have, to seal. When mine dies I'll strip it!

It's over 10 years old, still going strong.

How they switch, buggered if I know...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Are these sometimes placed in the boot

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mutant mini 1380cc '73 UK imp-Chroma Lusion-leather interior-8 x 300W Diamond Audio Dual Voice Coil 8" subs, Phoenix Gold 4 chnl amp, Pioneer 7550 DVD, 2x Phoenix Gold A1.800d MonoBlock Amp, Focal Utopia splits, 14" chrome rims 195/40/14 tyres

The SU pumps are sometimes mounted in the boot in competition cars (particularly when there's two).

I wouldn't recommend installing one of the facets in the boot.

I also have one similar to Doc's ($99 at robbo's). Even though I've got two rubber mounts on mine, it's still pretty noisy, the boot would only reasonate and make it worse I would have thought.

Doc, I was fairly careful to avoid shorting on the power lead to the subframe. Yours looks more exposed than mine - no issues for you there?

Those pics are of the new pump on the 850, just with a test lead to try it out.

Not on the road yet... when I get under there next time I'll heatshrink the connections like my road car is. Never had a problem with it in 10 years approx.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'v only ever had SU Pumps....Untill one Died and I replaced it with a NZ pump...Yep That Died with in a Year (Karcraft) now I have a German pump (Eekkk) as I was havng dramers with the Coil and the resistor (did not know that at the Time) I put Morris Electric Pump in the Boot . Love it No more under the car and Sue's can hear when she is out of petrol LoL (another thing I will be fixing when I do the Gear Box replacement).
Yer the van has the same as the Doc's and I was told by Karcraft you can not get then in Oz (another thing I have learnt today) and it it in the same postion on the rear subframe passengers side. But I don't have a boot YeH

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Just reading up on this now gents and have a few questions.

What happens to the old pump? do you leave it on there or blank it off somehow?

With the wiring, do you run the ground to the boot and the live wire from the ignition switch? or just run 2 wires from the igition switch?

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Blank off the old pump with a plate and gasket, or leave it there. Id rather remove it. Just ground one wire to the body and run the other to the ignition switch. I used to have 1 of these facet pumps but just to noisy, mounted on a block of rubber on the rear subframe. When I redid the engine the pump couldnt supply enough pressure and was causing leaning issues. I changed over to a rotary vane style pump, NO NOISE and higher pressure. All was sweet. Never going back to an old facet again, yes they are reliable though.

I think the switching of the facets is done using a bi-metalic strip, as current is applied to the strip it heats and causes it to go open circut. When open there is no current flow so the strip cools down and is then closed again. The process then repeats. This happens quite quickly hence the noise that they make.