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 Post subject: Disk Brake conversion.
PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2006 12:28 pm 
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848cc
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Joined: Tue Mar 14, 2006 7:00 pm
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Location: Melbourne
Hi i recently purchased a set of 7.5" disk brakes for $400, yay!!. but any ways on my mini i am running your run of the mill drums all round, I am wondering what do i need to put the disks on, i have the hub attatched is the ball joints. what do i need in the way of braking cylinders, boosters, vacuum assist? are there any alternatives to mini brake boosters?, they are just so damn expensive!,
well cheers, and help would be appreciated


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2006 12:44 pm 
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998cc
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Location: Canberra
I would suggest that if you can live with the firmer pedal feel in the mini go boosterless (sound's naughty I know :oops: ) NUDGE NUDGE

use the later master cylinder with the larger front output as this will stop you from locking your rears. You need to restrict flow to the rear a bit more than the masters on the older mini's. any twin leading drum front mini (or disk) has the larger flow to the front

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2006 12:58 pm 
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1360cc
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Joined: Tue Jun 01, 2004 3:41 pm
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Many guys on here run them without booster, myself included. Without a booster I can still lock my brakes if I step on them hard enough. I would try it without a booster first then if you don't like it, you can add one. I wouldn't go out and put a booster in straight away. The difference between your drums and discs will be that much that you'll forget about a booster anyway :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2006 1:01 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Melbourne
so i can pretty much plug em in to the existing lines? is there anything else that has to be done for em to work?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2006 1:13 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Thu Mar 18, 2004 1:33 pm
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Location: Darling Downs QLD
The rest of the brakes will generally need a look over as well.

Stepped drums on the rear,
is your Master cylinder in good condition?
check the flexible brake lines front and rear,
as well as the previously mentioned changing the rear wheel cylinders for the right ones for use with discs on the front.

You should check the condition of the disc brakes too. Are the CV's, calipers, and ball joints in good condition? Now is the time to fix if there is any doubt.

Another thing to check is what wheels were you planning on running? Standard 10" rims won't clear the caliper, and same for a few different 10" alloys.

And you may need longer tie rods as the track will have increased. You should think about getting the thicher steering arms as well, if not already on the discs.

Cheers
Matt


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2006 1:35 pm 
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848cc
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well i have adjustable tie rods already on my mini, brakes are great condition, going to replace rotors and pads, will replace ball joints. will be running chevoit 10" and the do clear the calipers, any way ive got that many mini's for parts its not funny, so im sure i can work it out.... thanks for the info matt.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2006 3:06 pm 
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Oops, I meant steering rack ends, not tie rods!

Cheers
matt


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2006 6:56 pm 
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I got a qoute on some DBA rotors today, $150 each........ does this seem a bit excessive? does anyone have any alternatives?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2006 7:09 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
yeah that is excessive, by around 50%- unless they are grooved or gold plated..
Karcraft (and probably others in Oz) have 7.5" Cooper S rotors for $76 ea approx.
www.karcraft.com.au
email [email protected]

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