Ok so my 1310 build is coming along slowly...
Head is at GR's getting all its work done ;
1.4" inlets
1.156" exhausts
hefty porting
Corolla rockers

Block is at Rhemac Motors;
40thou over bore
New cam bearings
Welsh and oil plugs


Crank... Long Journal
Motor has only done 50,000kms so its been said that the crank does not need grinding (has been looked over by a mini specialist)
Should i just whack it in and be done with it.
Or have it wedged +/ lightened +/ cross drilled +/ nitrided +/ STROKED.
Will the money spent give me much advantage by STROKING it?

What are the advantages and disadvantages.
and ... cost.

Go ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! you know you want too

& yes , of course , it`s much more GRUNT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! yet tame as a little kitten when you want it to be best of both worlds.
keep the cam nice & mild & go out & Flog all those "cammy" "Little" motors around easy-peasy, with an engine that is happy to sit there idling nicely & will happilly pull top gear from 7mph right through to over 100 mph

true

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Major thing i am worried about is cost.

And are they good for daily driving (flogging)

And PLEASE- wedge it, as the counterweights on a big J crank are inadequate for the stock stroke, never mind a stroker...!
Wedging makes up for it by lightening the crankpin side of them.
Don't blade it though- you are throwing counterweighting away.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So if i don't go with the stroked crank,

I should WEDGE the LJ crank?

you've got to be ****ing kidding me, will...

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Yes, whether you stroke it or not.
And if the rods are those old 1100S ones with the lumps on the caps, get them lightened and balanced.
But A+ rods are stronger, and lighter already...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Yep the motor is a very late 1275 A+.
Very late being from a 1996.

willy, what kinda price are Rhemac doing for you? I'm thinking about Hunter's, but I've got plenty of time to sort it out.

To be honest, I have no idea!
I will let you know as soon as i get the phone call to say "come and pick it up"

it better not be more than 3k....

or you'll get a whipping from me, bill....

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willy, I think you're going to make their week.

At least I'll have a benchmark, to say "I want a price better than ....."

Is Irene contributing on this one too?

it`s really only the extra cost of crank work & the con rods... as long as the pistons that you intend to use have enough meat ontop of them to "lop off" to bring the comp ratio back to a suitable road spec.

i use the JP 73mm ones as they`re tough as, thin rings & have heaps of meat on top to allow me to lop them off for strokers & also can be lightened heaps if you wanted to (but then my dad did help in the design of them so maybe that`s cheating a bit & even maybe a little biased )

easy-peasy & yeah, they`re the best dam road motors ever, & don`t listen to "ANYONE" who says they don`t rev,,,If they`re built well then they`ll rev to the moon, mine regularly saw 8500rpms at speedway.

go on,,,someone say something about how they know they don`t rev,,,go on ,,,i dare you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i have lots & lots & lots of stroker customers who will tell you how hard they rev theirs for the last umteen years

ok,,,that`s it, i`m not saying anymore about it, if you don`t stroke it then you`ll never know hey? your loss

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Whatever it costs is what i'll pay.
And yes, she's funding the whole project, so in all honesty I don't really give a toss what things cost.
As long as i have something nice at the end of it

You may quote me later, Will, when i quite proudly say

"You, my friend, are a tool"

Seriously, whats it gonna cost? How will you keep the show cool in traffic on a 38+ degree day? I understand the good points, but there are just as many bad ones. I've seen how you drive an 1100, let alone a 1400+. I'll give the gearbox 6 months, tops.

I've got alot more questions, but i'm not gonna waste my time

You should probably stop spending so much cash on booze for the weekends if you wanna go down the stroker route.

There. I've said my bit.

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Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Choose two.