OK tandem cylinders - one circuit for front, one for rear, right? How am I doing so far?

Now, if the unions are the same size (older) then it shouldn't matter which is front and which is rear, right?

But if they're different sizes (later) which is front and which is rear? Knew I should have taken more damn photos....

Not sure on minis, but it DOES matter on all other cars I've worked on.
Connect it as per original!

_________________
Too many cars, and too little time.

On a metro:
one goes to the front only, one to both front and rear as to reduce chance of ever loosing front brakes. metros have two lines to the callepers though,
now ive confused myself, because my mini(1981) has a tandem cylender and drums, im assuming they still do the same thing but using only one line.

_________________
speed costs....how fast do you want to go...

Well that's kinda what I'm installing - tandem cylinder to metro fronts and drum rear. Taking the set-up out of one car and installing in the other.

Trouble is I no longer have all the pipe work 'cause I sold the servo....now trying to figure out what went where

the upper most hole is the front, the lower to the rear

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

hmmm....had a ferret about and found the complete piping for the rear. Going by the length of the vertical section before it disappeared under the car it was previously going to the top??

I've confirmed the two ports are the same size thread, which I think means it's an older unit - no idea what difference that makes though.

What's the actual difference between the top and bottom? I've not been inside it, maybe I should have a peek.

The diameters are different

but the rear pipe should have gone into the PDWA Valve or what some people incorrectly call a proportioning valve. & then into the master cyl from there.

you`ve had some bodgey pipes & no valve fitted there right?

just a guess tho

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

As far as I know (and my moke says), the Aussie minis have front to rear split for the tandem MC. The workshop manuals and parts books I've got suggest some UK ones have diagonal split. That soulds like a great way to spin a car IMO, so front / rear is the go.
The master cylinders have the same size thread top and bottom but later master cylinders (from around '78) have metric thread fittings while the rest of the brake system retained imperial fittings. (I think later callipers have metric bleeders...).

So, top outlet for fronts (Trusting Matt 'cause it's his day job).
M

Hell yeah it's bodgey! Just trying to untangle it from here. The tandem MC was fitted with no valve whatsit - just one line that went to a servo and then split to feed the dual lines of the metro vented disks. Second line straight to the rears. What did the valve do anyway?

There were various other 'interesting' design choices on this car, however in it's defence I will say it stopped like you'd hit a wall and never locked the rears.

I could go back to a single line, but will a single MC push enough fluid for the metro vented front?

hmmm.....more thoughts. Going by the online catalogs http://www.minimania.com/web/CatPage/9- ... atalog.cfm

mine is number 10, which as mentioned above was for the diagonal set-up ( I agree, stupid idea). Therefore the cylinders must be the same size, which would allow the rears to come off either top or bottom, no difference.

Or am I making it up....

That master cyl was used as Front/rear split system here in OZ...we never got the diag split system at all, only the impot cars will have that crap

so same as said before, the front is the top, the rear is the bottom,,,rear is larger than the top is smaller

the person who owned the car before you probly got the sh!ts with the valve & removed it, no real drams there tho, they can be a pain in the butt anyways. They activate a valve & shut off one side of the system (front or rear) depending on which end it senses fluid moving faster than the other end & "Thinks" that it`s lost a cyl seal or split a hose etc & shuts off that end of the system,,,"Failiure consious" valve my dad calls em.

maybe just hook it up like it was & see what happens , if it was as good as you say then sweet I know lots of guys get rid of the valve anyways & just size all the cyls accordingly,,,mainly fitting the smaller ("S" type) rear wheel cyls to save the rears locking up.

The earlier "siingle" system had a "pressure limiting" valve in the back subframe to assist with making less pressure to the rear for the same reason. we make them adjustable for the race cars for dry & wet/dirt reacing you will want different rear poressure yeah? know what i mean?

easy-peasy

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Matt,
Think you may have it around the wrong way. Top hole is for rear cyl and lower hole for front. But I no expert on them, just had to do one for supercharger to get complianced.
G.
PS your phone is always off. Tried to call to arrange pick up a regulator.
drop me a line when you get a chance. 0402214066

_________________
1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

Now Greg, don`t go confusing me, i`ve done a good enough job of confusing myself here

i`ll have another gork at a std tandum system tonight & confirm it all

& my phone is on all the time, just that i`ve had to put my usual phone in for repairs & the Nokia service people are stuffing me around so i have this "Loaner" phone & it`s crap ,i think the aerial is rooted

I`ll bell you

cheers

Matt

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Ok,,,i now must make an appology

I was wrong

the top is the back & the bottom is the front

OOOps

sorry guys, hope i didn`t stuff you up too much

I had just done one last week & somehow had it in my head that it was the other way round, & now thinking about it all after confirming with 2 cars, it`s easy to see where i stuffed up

you can thank Greg Coates for this correction.

i`ll go back & crawl under my little rock & hide in shame for a while

_________________
No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

Thanks for the discussion guys. Not stuffed up anyway - I proceeded on the theory that if it wasn't broke don't fix it. The rear was previously top, so I went that way anyway. Firewall now looks like a ******' birdsnest of pipe now though.....line from MC to the rears....line for the front into a T to split left/right...then another T to split the two hoses....another T at the radiatorside to split for those two pipes.....looks nasty. One day I'll get a flaring kit and tidy up. One day.....

I haven't yet measured the rear cylinder bores. If they're different on the car I'm building and the car the MC came from I'll swap them.