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metro a+ 1275 performance and rebuild https://ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1627 |
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Author: | dr trim [ Mon Aug 23, 2004 7:15 pm ] |
Post subject: | metro a+ 1275 performance and rebuild |
alright ladies n gents i bought myself a metro a+ 1275 over the weekend. it has been imported from the uk and is only 15ish years old. with the 1275 i got a 55amp alternator a 1 3/4" HIF44 (that right?) carby with manifold linkages etc (attached to engine) also the starter motor electronic dizzy standard dizzy fuel pump etc etc i want to make this puppy go hard! ![]() i dont mind not putting it in for months, my engine is perfectly fine. im stripping it to pieces over the next few weeks. and a rebuild is on its way ![]() is supercharging worth the $$ and time? is it too much hassle? if so what setup should i be looking at doing? if not what should i be doing in the way of cams and head work, pistons, the whole thing. any info will be a pleasure sc850 and drmini i'm waiting on ur knowledge with supercharging/ engine building/ performance. so speak up ![]() |
Author: | Californian Moker [ Mon Aug 23, 2004 8:03 pm ] |
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Cmon Mikey Will u be running disc brakes with that? ![]() ![]() |
Author: | Lillee [ Mon Aug 23, 2004 8:18 pm ] |
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I reckon keep it Non Aspirated! If Kev's car is anything to go by, I'd say non blower is more than enough! Less hassle, that's my opinion... (you asked for it ![]() Head work, larger valves, higher CR, a graham russel cam, webber 45 and she'll go pretty hard dude ![]() Hope you're running discs with that! |
Author: | dr trim [ Mon Aug 23, 2004 9:33 pm ] |
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discs is on the to do ![]() |
Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Aug 23, 2004 10:08 pm ] |
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I'd keep it NA, to start with anyhow. Metro Turbo only had 94HP or so, easy to beat that these days without a snail. OK, so it only had 4-7 psi or something- pissweak.. The weakest part of a Metro Turbo motor is the bearings, according to Des Hammill. NA motors live longer! I've been thrashing my rebuilt 1310 for 45,000 miles now. I rev it to 7500+. Still got 75psi oil pressure, hot.. ![]() |
Author: | dr trim [ Mon Aug 23, 2004 10:33 pm ] |
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why are they called metro turbo's? i thought they were just MG metro's? is it the same stupidity as the 1100 and the 1100s? anyway. i didnt think supercharging was the way to go. NA is fine, i just thought i'd see what it amounted to. What should i do to my engine? What's the most cost effective stuff to do? |
Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Aug 23, 2004 10:36 pm ] |
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There was the common Metro, the MG Metro, and the MG Metro Turbo, (also used in the ERA Turbo Minis). |
Author: | dr trim [ Tue Aug 24, 2004 5:49 pm ] |
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was the turbo actually turbo? all of them are good? what's the differences..? |
Author: | ausminis4u [ Tue Aug 24, 2004 6:02 pm ] |
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850pvan wrote: was the turbo actually turbo? yeh it was an actual turbo motor all of them are good? what's the differences..? ![]() |
Author: | dr trim [ Tue Aug 24, 2004 6:08 pm ] |
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well im not turboing it. im not down with turboing carby fed motors. but i have to say im still very interested in supercharging it. suck through would be the way to go. i have a hif44 carb that was on the metro. im going to be doing head work, porting the crap out of it and getting better flow. is there a better type of valve springs that would be good to use? i've been told the easier they are to push down the less the engine has to work. obviously they still need the strength to close the valve back up. what sort of cam is recommended for supercharging, i've been looking in my "how to powertune ur 1275 a-series engine" by des hammil. i dont recall it mentioning anything about a specific cam for a supercharged motor. what needs strengthening if i do run a supercharger? ie conrods etc. with block machining is it best to balance everything so that the crankshaft spins perfectly? these are the sorts of things im looking to find out. im sure there's people that have done it before. help an uneducated man ![]() |
Author: | Anto [ Tue Aug 24, 2004 7:31 pm ] |
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850pvan wrote: is there a better type of valve springs that would be good to use? i've been told the easier they are to push down the less the engine has to work. obviously they still need the strength to close the valve back up.
Remember that you are trying to avoid valve bounce though - most people put double valve springs in to make it harder, rather than softer. |
Author: | Gareth_1330 [ Tue Aug 24, 2004 7:33 pm ] |
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Heh, if i was doing a forced induction motor i would pick cam by ringing Graham Russel (god i sound like his agent..) tell him what i had build, and tell him to grind a cam to suit, iI wouldn't be surprised if he had already masterminded a suitable grind for a motor like yours.. I know Kazjim's 998 turbo runs a slightly modified RE-13 camshaft, thats Grahams all purpose kick ass road cam, as seen in my bomb, kevs car and many more of the quicker minis around.... Well actually if i was doing a Mad motor i would be talking to Graham from day 1, and definately be putting the motor on his dyno or another, if not getting him to do all the spannerwork aswell.. Thats what i did last time, ie when i snapped a crank.... |
Author: | drmini in aust [ Tue Aug 24, 2004 7:35 pm ] |
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The stock Metro springs are good for about 6000 if you are lucky. Talk to cam grinders about a cam suitable for supercharging. Metro power- common one was around 60HP, MG Metro 72, Turbo was 93 or 94 from memory. |
Author: | dr trim [ Tue Aug 24, 2004 8:31 pm ] |
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what about strengthening and balancing. im all up for a graham russel cam, but he cant do all my engine work, coz im in adelaide, and he's in sydney.. kinda get the drift? ![]() |
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