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Hot 1100 Build https://ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=15877	Page 1 of 2

Author:	kartbro [ Sun Feb 05, 2006 8:32 am ]
Post subject:	Hot 1100 Build
Ok, i'm rebuilding the 1100, i sorta know what i want, but i dont know how to get it. First of all im looking for some extra displacement, how big should I go with a forced induction low-comp setup? I'm not up to date with mini pistons, so i'm looking at the best trade-off between strength to handle the pressure and revs, (i'm looking at running it to about 7-8k) and displacement. Whats the recommendation? I was thinking of going the 1220 route, are aftermarket pistons available? 1132 sounds a bit weak... Thanks.

Author:	sports850 [ Sun Feb 05, 2006 9:43 am ]
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Hey Kartbro , probably should stick with only one thread for the motor build otherwise we'll end up with answer's to similar questions going in oposite directions . As for the build , if you're going to go that big , why not get a 1275 and be done with it , it'll be a lot stronger than a majorly bored out 1100 and probably end up costing the same (if not cheaper , the pistons you're chasing could well be expensive) . I know you're trying to start off using the motor currently in the car but if you want bigger performance you're probably better to go a slightly milder and safer blown 1275 then an "on the edge" higher worked 1100 . Don't forget to put disc brakes on it either , even if it is only the 1100 block it'll still need them by the time you've worked it and or put a blower on it .

Author:	Mini Mad [ Sun Feb 05, 2006 1:13 pm ]
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Mate, boring an 1100 out to 1220 and running imp pistons with a blower would be lucky to last the first turn of the key. That is even IF you can get it to 1220 without going through the oilway. These aren't tiny kart engines or modern jap buzz boxes. Rev's are what kills an engine and taking an 1100 to 8k is going to have it blowing up before you even started. You don't NEED big bores with boost, you'll just get bore flex anyway. Kazjim is running a 998 Turbo on here and it will blow away most of the big block's. Throw in a stroker crank to 1098..rebuild it to 1132 (if that is the next size up) and it will have more than enough power to get you in trouble. As sport850 said, try and keep things in the one thread, we've already commented over there, let's keep it together.

Author:	drmini in aust [ Sun Feb 05, 2006 2:24 pm ]
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Imp pistons are like rocking horse doo-doo now, last quote i got for decent ones was $800/set. The bores will be way too thin for turboing, likewise the piston crowns. Imp pistons are pretty fragile in an A series, even N/A. BTW I have built 3 motors with them in.

Author:	kazjim [ Sun Feb 05, 2006 7:01 pm ]
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Yea, new build starting soon.... Building a blown "Stroker" 998 Forgot to ask DRMINI yesterday about the pistons, but looking at an 1132 (0.040" over) and running up to 7000RPM .... At those revs, there is MORE than enough exhaust flow for some SERIOUS compressor action on the intake side ! (think 18+PSI) get the inlet temps down to something realistic (I'm running a PWR Water-to-Air intercooler) and 100+@Wheels is VERY realistic ..... Would put me in the top 3 for "Most Powerful A-Series" Street engines.... Just do your homework.. yea Books are boring, but paying for parts three or four times is even more annoying.,..... J

Author:	kartbro [ Sun Feb 05, 2006 7:21 pm ]
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In the process of stripping my car today i found out that i've in fact got a 12g295 head. The big open chambers would be good for a low compression, blown donk right? I'm assuming there has been no headwork done (TBC) so what sort of work will need doing? Would the RE13T suit the head/blower/1132cc combo? Funnily enough, today i was being told by a local mini buff to make sure i get an open chamber head.

Author:	kazjim [ Sun Feb 05, 2006 7:32 pm ]
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Yep, 295 would have been the preferred head for me, but a it was I've now got a DRMINI ST 12G1316 head .... (1275, Open Chamber, "pollution" version of the 12G940).... Big valves, biggish ports, big chambers (can still go bigger i think) and a Heap of flow .... the 295 would be a great head as the block wont need "pocketing" for the exhaust valves like mine has .... new block might have some even more extreme pocketing work, I'm thinking about the flow in this area as being restricted by the pockets at full valve lift . . . so I'm going to experiment with some chamfering and some ball-ended mills to do the work ... J

Author:	kartbro [ Sun Feb 05, 2006 8:26 pm ]
Post subject:
The less major machine work the better IMO! I have a local engine builder that allows me to use all his equipment, so im going to be doing the bulk of the work there. I dont have any experience with heads or combustion chamber shaping, so im considering doing a port match (in & ex) and polish (ex only). I will also polish and CC the chambers. Am i heading in the right direction? Any information on working A-series heads would be much apprieciated! Thanks

Author:	Mini Mad [ Sun Feb 05, 2006 8:28 pm ]
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Buy one of David Vizards books. He has good diagrams in there which you can follow.

Author:	kartbro [ Sun Feb 05, 2006 8:37 pm ]
Post subject:
I was waiting for someone to say that

Author:	sports850 [ Sun Feb 05, 2006 9:08 pm ]
Post subject:
Definitely get vizards books and read them till you fully understand how and why he's doing what he does . Also , as I'm assuming this is your first mini (first car ?), maybe start a little milder , still go the turbo or blown option but keep it on the safer and more durable side so you can still use it as a daily driver without spending every night working on it , after all , you're still at school aren't you ?

Author:	Mini Mad [ Sun Feb 05, 2006 9:11 pm ]
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If you are a P Plater anyway you wont be able to drive a Turbo car...

Author:	kartbro [ Mon Feb 06, 2006 3:01 pm ]
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Yep I'm still at school, 30 weeks to go or something, and i've got my P's so i'll have to register the car in Dad's name Not that it makes driving it any more legal. But at least then its possible! Im also looking at a twin Hiclone setup for a free 10hp and 23% saving on fuel hahaha. Maybe i'll get a few of them, then i wont need a blower at all!

Author:	kartbro [ Mon Feb 06, 2006 5:47 pm ]
Post subject:
Is $375 a good price for a rebuild kit for an 1100? Hypatec +060" Pistons included.

Author:	drmini in aust [ Mon Feb 06, 2006 7:05 pm ]
Post subject:
kartbro wrote: Is $375 a good price for a rebuild kit for an 1100? Hypatec +060" Pistons included. What else is in kit? Pistons worth about $200/set in SA...

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