I was just wondering how people go about removing the idler gear bearing and the outer race of the 1st motion shaft outrigger bearing from the transfer case/clutch housing.

You can use 2 methods.
1. Use a blind hole bearing puller or the BMC special pullers.
2. Carefully grind the outer bearing race until its almost ground away and the outer race can then be prised out as it tends to buckle and loosen. The idler bearing is a bit more complicated but the technique is the same. Just make sure you grind the end lip away at both ends. The rollers get in the way but it can be done. This is how a well known Mini place does it.
Just be extremely careful not to grind into the alloy housing or it will be scrap metal. You don't have to grind the outer races completely through as they will both buckle and loosen.
You can use a die grinder, drill or a Dremel. haven't tried the Dremel but I've used the other 2.

Regards
RonR

There was a Mini place at Seven Hills (Telltune) years ago and they showed me how they did it.
Idler- get a long 3/8" bolt, hold it with head just inside needle bearing, bolt vertical- and put 6 MIG tack welds around it. Then use a bit of tube and a big thick flat washer, run a nut down and that will wind it out.
I use an old 850 diff yoke, sits in there nice.

Outrigger bearing outer race- remove the snap ring, then proceed as above- but use a thick washer that just fits inside the bearing ring. I tack weld that to the ring with 8 tacks after slipping a 3/8" bolt through it.
After use I grind the tacks off, keep for next time.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

One of the books I have here says you can pour boiling water on the top of it and the bearing will drop out thebottom. Haven't tried it myself....maybe the doc has tried this?

I have not tried boiling water but I have warmed it up with an oxy and then tap the housing on a bit of wood. It does not take much heat, I think a heat gun would do it nicely.

Actually, the book said that under no circumstances should an oxy be used, cause the aluminuim will be too easily damaged or weakened, and it messes with the hole tolerance for the bearing.
100 degrees of water is supposed to be enough to move the bearing and nothing more.
Again, i haven't tried. Hmmm, might go try it now!

I tried boiling water and it didn't work, and read oxy not recommended- hence why I use my method.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Another method which is supposed to work but which I haven't tried is to run a bead of weld around the inside of the bearing outer race. When it cools it is supposed to shrink the outer race enough for it to loosen and fall out.
You pays your money and you take your chances!

Regards
RonR

the bead of weld method does work, but makes a bit of a mess. I did this on a spare casing before potentially ruining the one im using. I tried plain heating it with a heatgun and it worked nicely. As for the idler i took all the rollers and the cage out and carefully ground the walls wafer thin on opposite sides and then pryed it out. Tomorrow ill chuck it in the fancy parts washer at work and blow out all the filings from drilling out the engine breather flange.
Slowly getting there... soon enough ill have a nice new big bore on a rebuilt box. Hopefully no more oil leaks also

I thought the heat gun would work. It dosent take very much to get a bit of expansion with alloy. You could probably do it with a soldering iron.

One method I have seen used (by Chris Milton Engine Developments) is to drill a small hole in the flywheel housing behind the idler gear bearing then drift it out with a narrow punch. Weld the hole back up again afterwards. Another method is supposed to involve filling the bearing with grease and then tapping in a rod that is exactly the same internal diameter while heating the cover - the grease is pressurised by the plunger and forces the bearing out.

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Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)

I have used the grease trick years ago on the outrigger one, and it does work, but it's no good on the needle roller bearing at the idler gear. The grease all just pi$$es out around the rollers. Also there's a oil lube hole at back of it, it leaks out there too.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

One tip that I picked up in recent times is to use wet newspaper instead of grease for pushing bushes out of blind holes. It is a lot cleaner.

the best one i have done for th eclutch case outrigger bearinbg is to heat the housing up in the oven for a good fe minutes and then take it out and drop it hard on some very flat wood or thick cardbaord and the two metal heat up at different rates and the alloy housing will heat up much quicker than the outer race

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

i have a puller for the outrigger & simply die grind the idler

easy-peasy

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.