just want to know what i could do to my 998 engine to make it go a little harder for the hill climb car, and how much would each thing cost..?? i dont think a stocl 998 would really cut it against some others so just looking for a few suggestions.

cheers

sean

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Potato

put a 1275 head on it $250 give or take

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67' Matic
73' S

and so what would putting a 1275 Head on a 998 do? up the compression or lower? i know it would let more Air and fuel in and Gas out. what about a 1275 crank in a 998 what do u get out of that mod or is it not possible?

I dont think a 1275 crank will fit.......

I think you can put a 1100 crank in..

I can never remember..only play with 1275 and more.

I am sure Doc will chime in with the answer

1275 Crank wont fit..

If your usng it for hill climbs..best BFYB would be to whack a 1098 crank in and suitable pistons (no substitute for cubic inches) ..good for 10HP at the wheels and more importantly the toque to climb those hills...

1275 head will require pocketing the block and other such hassles, but on a budget port your existing 12G202 head, will take alot of time to get close to a 295 which is what you want...

Put a better carb on it...simple extractors, RC40.....etc

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

would twin 1.25's be good for it? yer i was going to do the rc/40 on it cos its reasonably cheap and supposedly its a good little zaust. cheers

keep the suggestions coming there extremely helpful

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Potato

Twins would be OK...depending on the power a 1.5" SU or maybe even and 1.75" would be the go..a single is generally cheaper and easier to maintain...

Personally I wouldn't go past a 40mm Dellorto or Webber..especially for race use...hell it'll even make it sound like a race car

I forgot to mention a cam previously, they go a long way to providing good power in an A-Series...get GR to grind you up an RE-13..or maybe even a 286 if your going to rev the nuts off it...

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

Stuff twins.. pain in the ass. get a good single HIF or weber/del.

Turbo It!!!!

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No more Minis!......For now.

I believe giving the head a good port job will provide best 'bang for buck' and just match it up to a good carbie and zorst set-up. An 1100 crank and RE-13 cam is a good combo to add if you can do it yourself.

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Agree with all the above. The 202 head will warm to a few mods(porting, skim the surface, relieve the valve stem surrounds in the guts etc). Get it CC-ed as well to work out your compression while you are at it - I do my own as I have the pipettes and a fairly steady eye and hand. This will take the guestimation out of the equation. Make sure you cc the pistons as well if they are dished.

RE-13 cam is a must but retain the standard rocker ratio(the god GR mentioned this to me...) or, if you must, go only to 1.3:1 tops. Fettle the sharp edges off the cam lobes to retain oil film as well as the rods and caps(very tedious and slow procedure!!!). Get a flywheel-on-crank balance and she should be ace.

If you throw the 1100 crank in, make sure you use the 1100 pistons as 998 ones are not suitable. Go a sidedraught carby vice the twin buck and a quarters(good torque).

When you do the head, get the engineer to remove the peaks in the combustion chambers as it will save you a bit of money and hotspot issues later on down the track when you go the forced induction route. I have a blower kit ready to go but I am not sure whether I want to put it on yet or not(dont want a bling hairdryer in a crappy engine bay!!). If you force induce a mini, these peaks glow red hot and can cause hotspots and pre-ignition/run on issues. Mainly with the turbos does this occur but not a big issue - it is a matter of mucking around with mixtures and timing to avoid it if the peaks are intact.

Shite - waffling so see how you go

Hooroo

Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

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Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

Also depends on how streetable you want the car to be. A 12G940 head, with the block pocketed, coupled with a suitable cam would go fairly hard, but might be a bit much for a street 998, realistically. Want it for the street as well I'd port a 12G202, maybe enlarge the valves to make it more like a 12G295. Put a bit less of a cam in since its a 998.

Better off going 1098 though for the extra torque. Wont rev as much mind you, but should be capable of taking a bit bigger cam. Twin HS2 carbs are nice & look tops, but they are really only good if you want the classic look or have a Cooper. Better off with a single 1.5" on a decent aftermarket manifold, or preferably a 40mm DCOE or DHLA.

My old 1098 had a stock cam (better than 998 cam though), stock head, and a 40DHLA on it and it went surprisingly well, if it was still around I would have to put a ported 202 on it and a decent cam, and it would have gone hard I reckon

Gday Anton - I ran a 12G940 head on the lil 998 and it went like a freight train off a cliff. The only reason I removed it was to recon it and then I sold it. Block wasnt pocketed and never had an issue with the valves smashing the block. I know I should have but I did the math and they were not even going to get close to the block. fuel economy on a 998 goes down the toilet though and is very thirsty with the 940 head. Des Hammill swears blindly by the 940 on a small block but there is a bit of work to get them set up. I am thinking of doing the same again soon.

BTW - off subject I have that 7.5 gallon tank for you as well. Will drag it to the mini meeting on Wednesday night if you want...

Hooroo

Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

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Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

i think you might be able to get away with not pocketing if you don't run high lift ... but i aint shore..

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Don't risk it. Sooner or later you will overrev it, then bang... bent valves, at least.
Not a big deal to pocket it. Both kazjim and I have done them in a few hours, IN the car...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.