a lot of work dropping out both sub frames but gee the handling was so much improved really stuck to the road after that
(mini leyland 1100 sedan )

why did I do it i bought 2 minis for less than $400
one was rubber and rusted the other was hydraulic and stuffed no cost to me as i am a mechanic did it the change over in a weekend

hmmm, don't know why you would go and do that. hydro is a much smoother and more comfortable ride. You should have just thrown on some front shocks and anti sway bars. easier and much better in my opinion.

Cheers

Aaron

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isn't it front shocks and comp bump stops on the rear that way you don't need the sway bar

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

..... sway bars will help it "stick" to the road....

Cheers

Aaron

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i think its a good mod for these reasons
available parts
simple and adds the ability to add hi los and multiple settings
seems a cheaper option
once its all set and done theres no need to worry about anything like popping a bag
ease of maintenance

NOTE these are just my thoughts have owned both types and theres my experiences

Cheaper option? how much have you spent on dry suspension conversion? My Hydro set up on my car costs me:

1) $25 for a pair of front shocks
2) ~$70 for competition bump stops on the rears
3) a few cans of beer for the doc to pump up the Hydro fluid once in a while

Handling is awesome, I have no complaints at all and neither does the doc with around 85hp at the wheels...

I find dry suspension bumpy, like you are riding on a spring mattress. If you haven't got a properly setup/working wet car, then that's probably why you think dry is better. Cooper S's all came out with wet so I wonder why that is? It is by far the cheapest bang for buck.

Unless your wet suspension is totally rooted, then forget it I say, spend $2000 on something else!

Just my opinion... most people will argue

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

you can spend dollars on both im not suggesting anyone swap a decent wet out for a dry but i wouldnt spend the dollars again to get a wet system fully redone because it costs and then you still have no guarantees of a bag not going on you unless you use brand new bags and i for one dont have four new bags laying in my shed

That's a no brainer, but people here are talking about modifying as if it were an upgrade Last i checked, hydro was a feature

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

The sporty adjustable type shocks everyone seems to be ordering are mega $$$$ in my opinion

Hydro and you just put garden variety shocks on and then only on the front...

Mind you I would not be too keen on looking for a new set of hydro bags in the next few years.

But if my hydro blows and the bags etc are prohibitive then I will change to rubber cones then no point fixing what isn't broke.

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

Seems a cheaper option then reconditioning a wet subby

lets put it this way if you got a mini deluxe with wet suspension, and it was a car to be restored and the suspension was x amount of years old untouched and shabby would you rebuild it and then add your upgrades or would you choose to fit a more recent 76 etc dry subframe with a set of hi los with recond components
i know what i would do

not saying wet system isnt good and no ones arguing the bathurst cars had em yada yada but bang for buck resto which one

I'd resto the wet subframes rubber cones fit in the wet subframes when my hydro bags buggered up I'd already have reco'd subframes and that sorta stuff.

Even if I had to change subframes I think most bits are transferable.

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

We've got wet subframes F & R in Barney now- with rubber cones, Hi-Los and Konis.
Yes they do fit in OK.
Yes it handles OK now but no it doesn't handle better.
No it doesn't ride as good. But at high speed, it's not bad.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

bring your dry and wet minis down to the race track and lets see who out handles who

Id stick with what ever the mini has in it as both will work well if in good condition.

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1974 Moke - 998cc
76 Clubman B16a2 Vtec AWD Turbo 12.9@105mph
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9PW49e1hYs

I've used both and have to say the dry suspension handles better but is not so comfortable. On the hydro I used front shocks and ST competition bump tops front and rear, but the latter don't last too long on a lowered car.

The Cooper S hydro units are not like the ordinary Mini ones and give a firmer ride and better handling but they are no longer available. You used to be able to get competition hydro which were stiffer still - they were colour coded with bands around the top of the untit (the Cooper S type were green by memory).

I converted my Mk 2 S from hydro to dry - used the same front subframe but fitted a complete dry rear one. Hydro is heavier and it's a pain when you have to disconnect something and then get it pumped up again. I also had a battery cable short through a hydro line and catch fire.

Interestingly some of the top Mini racers used hydro (Manton included) but ran the connecting pipes from side to side instead of back to front.

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Slide
1965 Mini Van (1360)
1970 Mk2 Cooper S (1310)
1978 Rover SD1 V8 (4.6)
1996 Land Rover Discovery V8 (4.0)

see coming from a mini truck background, i would (if it ever happened) replace my hydro in the 1100 with an adjustable air setup. pretty darn easy, way more adjustable, and a kit would cost the same as your coilovers and whatnot. i've never heard of a hydro unit fail, and to build a pump for it is EASY AS you just need to go to Bunnings and pirtek and its built...