Nothing special about these bolts, a nice set of Grade 8s or better would be just as good.
IMO, anybody who puts new fluid seals into an S caliper without splitting them, is a masochist.
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| Can anyone tell me how tight my caliper bolts need to be? https://ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=14098 |
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| Author: | Harley [ Sun Dec 18, 2005 11:35 am ] |
| Post subject: | Can anyone tell me how tight my caliper bolts need to be? |
What torque do I need on my metro caliper bolts holding the two halves together? So far my average response has been "you shouldn't have taken them apart", but that doesn't help me now. Even the torques for the 2 pot calipers would be of help to me. Thanks. |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Sun Dec 18, 2005 2:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I can't find a spec in any of the books either but on S ones I use 35lb/ft. Same size as the caliper/swivel hub mounting bolts. |
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| Author: | 9YaTaH [ Sun Dec 18, 2005 4:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | UK |
I would ask the question here: http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/index.php?act=idx |
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| Author: | Harley [ Sun Dec 18, 2005 5:30 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks guys, but I'd torqued and painted them before you'd replied to just over 50Nm, or 32 lb/ft like doc said. |
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| Author: | Lillee [ Sun Dec 18, 2005 9:29 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I was just about to say, from memory about 35lb/ft. Caliper to hub is the same |
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| Author: | Harley [ Mon Dec 19, 2005 9:30 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I posted the same question on minifinity, increasing my chances for a fast response, but it was too late. Anyway, apparently the factory torque is 34-39Nm, and the bolts should be thrown away if the calipers are split. But since the bolts can't be bought, most people re-use them without issues. I just hope I haven't stuffed them by torquing them too much! |
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Mon Dec 19, 2005 2:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Nothing special about these bolts, a nice set of Grade 8s or better would be just as good. IMO, anybody who puts new fluid seals into an S caliper without splitting them, is a masochist.
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| Author: | Besser [ Wed Dec 28, 2005 1:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | correct torque |
The correct torque is based on the strech of the bolt being in the mid point of the elastic range of the bolt. Using a Grade 8 or 10.9 makes a big differance to the load to strech or in torque, a 10.9 needs more then a 8. Under the Australian / NZ standards for bolts, I have only ever come across the "tighten once then throw away" clause in the construction of Cranes for buildings. This was due to the zinc galvanising having both a lubricating and period deformation effect only once. Oh and while I'm on the soap box, using a thread locking agent applied as a liquid is normally considered as being a lubricated bolt when Torque is being applied. EG lower torque to get the same stretch. My2c worth |
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